I smiled reading Asiel's reply, as the first thing I was going to say was, glad you are not using a prong collar!The place I use for training, they don't permit prong collars or chokers at all.
Anyway, I have a few ideas:
A harness is a good thing. Dogs who pull can end up with collapsed trachea, and that is a life time of hardship for both of you. Best to keep with a harness and skip the collar. (Bichons, which I have, are prone to collapsed trachea so we only use harnesses here.)
Can she still get out of it? If not, fine. If so, try a Rope N Go. My Tasha is a puppy mill rescue, and I went through 6 harnesses in the first 3 months I had her, until I found this. She has never been able to get out of it. Here is the link:
http://www.ubraidit.com/supplies-thumbs.php?cat=81
Next, for training. Having a clicker is a great idea! Good job! I suppose you know or will find online instructions. The main thing with a clicker is: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS click and treat. Click the INSTANT the behavior you want happens, in later stages. In early stages, any movement in the direction you want gets a click and treat. So depending on what you are training, you may work up to it in several smaller steps. The clicker allows you to capture the behavior much more quickly than you can with voice or offering a treat. When you work in steps, that is called shaping behavior.
Just in the house, when she is free and roaming around, you want to teach the command FOCUS. You hold the treat up at your forehead. The instant you get her looking, click and treat. She doesn't have to come to you, it is the attention you want, not physical movement, with this command.
For walking, use the Drunken Sailor routine. You won't make much progress for a few days, but this works! You start out with 4 steps forward. By this time, she is at the end of the lead and pulling. Turn left (or right, doesn't matter really as you will see) and take 6 steps. By now she has got in front again. Pivot right around to change direction and run 3 steps. She will run out in front of you. Turn right (or left) and take 9 baby steps. Just keep mixing it up with speed and direction. The idea is to get her to pay attention to you, not to take the front in walks. She has to follow where YOU lead, not the other way round. You can do this with treats, and with the clicker and treats as well. Each time she stops pulling and changes direction, that would be a click and treat. If you are getting dizzy, if the neighbors are looking out their windows and tsk-tsk=tsking, you are doing it correctly! If you and boyfriend do this consistently, in 3 weeks should won't be pulling.
Heeling: one definition of heel is: walking at an unaturally slow pace and having no fun at all as a doggie.While it is taught in the classes I take, it is explained to us this is to be used only in short spurts. For example to get around trash bins, or a short area of construction, or if for some strange reason there are suddenly cars in both directions (my dogs and I tend to take over the street, lol) So don't worry about teaching her to heel, IMO.
I understand about training classes being on hold for a bit. Do save up for them, she will benefit from it SO much! Until then, you will find this book very helpful: The Other End of the Leash, by Patricia McConnell. I found it at my library. Liked it so much I bought a copy off Amazon.com, but that is up to you.





The place I use for training, they don't permit prong collars or chokers at all. 
While it is taught in the classes I take, it is explained to us this is to be used only in short spurts. For example to get around trash bins, or a short area of construction, or if for some strange reason there are suddenly cars in both directions (my dogs and I tend to take over the street, lol) So don't worry about teaching her to heel, IMO.
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. It does deter pulling a LOT. And then she looks back at me and usually slows down.

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