Motherless newborn kittens? HELP

[Randi]

I'm afraid I don't know much about newborn kittens, except when we moved 5 from the place they were born and took them to a kitty house nearby we had built (making sure the mother saw it), the mother didn't want to have anything to do with them Perhaps if you do move them, take a clean pair of gloves on.

Best of luck saving the poor kittens!

I found this article:

Article Printed From: AnimalHelp.Com

Raising Orphaned Kittens
Author: Pet Encyclopedia

Raising an orphaned kitten can be a very heartwarming and rewarding experience. However, it takes a great deal of care and commitment. This fact sheet begins by discussing the care of orphaned newborn kittens.


What problems am I likely to face with an orphaned kitten?

Three common and potentially life-threatening problems in orphaned newborns are chilling, dehydration, and hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). All three may be present together in a kitten that has been abandoned and exposed to the elements. These problems can also develop in a kitten under your care unless you are paying close attention.

1. Chilling

Newborn kittens cannot regulate their body temperature very well. They quickly become chilled, or hypothermic if their mother, their siblings, or their environment does not keep them warm. It will be necessary to provide a heat source for your kitten for the first few weeks of life. Suitable heat sources include hot water bottles and heat lamps. Heating pads can burn the kittens and should be avoided. Whichever heat source you use, make sure the kitten doesn't become overheated or burned. In addition, avoid drafts by placing the kitten's box away from windows, doorways, and air-conditioning vents.

During the first 4 days of life, aim to keep the temperature in the box at kitten-level between 85°F and 90°F. Gradually decrease the temperature to about 80°F by day 7-10. If you are raising a litter of kittens, the temperature can be a little lower, as the kittens will huddle together and keep one another warmer.

The normal rectal temperature for a newborn kitten is 95-99°F. If its rectal temperature is below 94°F you are dealing with a potentially life-threatening case of hypothermia. The kitten needs to be warmed immediately. Take care not to overheat the kitten or warm it too quickly; this can be fatal in a weak kitten.

2. Dehydration

Newborn kittens quickly become dehydrated if they are not nursing. They can also become dehydrated if their environment is hot and dry. Two indicators of dehydration are loss of elasticity in the skin (the skin stays tented when gently pinched up) and decreased saliva production (the gums and tongue feel tacky or dry).

In addition to providing adequate nutrition, you may need to humidify the kitten box or room if the kitten is small or weak. Be careful not to make the box too hot and humid; this can cause respiratory distress. A home humidifier should be adequate.

3. Hypoglycemia

Hypoglycemia quickly develops in a newborn that is not nursing frequently. As hypoglycemia worsens, the kitten becomes progressively more depressed and weak. Without treatment it may develop muscle twitches or seizures (convulsions) and then it becomes unresponsive and comatose. If it is showing any of these signs place a few drops of corn syrup on its tongue. This simple procedure is often sufficient to revive a hypoglycemic kitten. Also watch for signs of hypoglycemia over the next several days, as you adjust your kitten's feeding schedule.

What should I feed the kitten?

Until the kitten is old enough to start eating solid food (about 3 weeks of age), you'll need to feed it a milk replacer. The best milk replacer is a commercial formula that is specifically developed for kittens. There are several good products available. In an emergency, use canned goat's milk or the following recipe:

-1 cup of whole milk

-1 tablespoon of vegetable oil

-1 pinch of salt

-3 egg yolks

-Blend the mixture well.

For very young kittens, warm the milk replacer to 95-100°F before feeding it, and test the temperature on the underside of your wrist as you would a baby's bottle. In older kittens, the milk replacer can be fed at room temperature.

How do I feed the kitten?

There are several methods of feeding milk replacer to a kitten. Probably the easiest and safest way in an emergency is with a medicine dropper. Spoon-feeding is slow and messy, and there is a risk that some of the liquid will trickle into the kitten's lungs.

Baby bottles made for kittens are excellent if the kitten has a good suck reflex. Take some time to check the hole in the nipple before using the bottle the first time. The hole is the right size if, when you turn the bottle upside down, milk replacer drips from the nipple with only a gentle squeeze of the bottle.

If milk drips or streams from the nipple without you squeezing the bottle, the hole is too large. In this situation, too much milk may enter the kitten's mouth and some may be inhaled rather than swallowed. If when you upend the bottle, you must squeeze it firmly to get milk to drip from the nipple, the hole needs to be enlarged. Otherwise, the kitten will become discouraged or exhausted when nursing and may even refuse to nurse. To enlarge the hole, heat a needle and then pierce the tip of the nipple a few times.

If the kitten is weak and has a poor suck reflex, it is necessary to feed the kitten through a tube inserted into its stomach. Your veterinarian will place the tube and instruct you on how to maintain it for feeding.

How much and how often should I feed the kitten?

Follow the directions for feeding amount on the commercial milk replacer packaging. First, weigh your kitten using a scale that is accurate to the ounce or gram. Unless the milk replacer package gives amounts per feeding, take the total daily amount recommended and divide it by the number of feedings per 24-hour period. If the kitten is small or weak, we recommend feeding it every 3-4 hours. That means 6 meals (every 4 hours) or 8 meals (every 3 hours) per 24 hours. With older kittens, feeding four meals per 24-hour period, equally spaced every 6 hours, is adequate. By the end of the third week, you should be able to start weaning your kitten.

I've heard that orphaned kittens need help defecating. Is this true?

Mothers stimulate their kittens to defecate (pass stool) by licking or nuzzling around it's anus. To prevent your orphaned kitten from becoming constipated, you'll need to mimic this action using a soft cloth or cotton ball moistened with warm water. Gently stimulate the kitten's anal area after feeding for the first 2 weeks of its life.

When can I start weaning my kitten?

Your kitten will be ready to eat solid food by 3-4 weeks of age. A simple way of weaning kittens is described in the article, Feline: Raising Kittens. Also discussed on that sheet is a suitable diet for your weaned kitten.

When should I bring my kitten in for its vaccinations?

The usual recommendation is to start kittens on their lifelong vaccination program at 6-8 weeks of age. If your kitten did not get to nurse from its mother in the first few days of life, its vaccination program should start earlier, at 2-4 weeks of age. The reasons are discussed on the fact sheet, Feline: Raising Kittens. Also on that sheet is a list of the vaccinations commonly recommended for kittens. Your veterinarian can recommend what is best for your kitten.

Does my kitten need to be treated for worms?

Internal parasites (worms) are common in kittens. Some of these parasites are passed from the mother to the kittens; fleas transmit others. Routinely deworm kittens every few weeks. Your veterinarian can advise you on an appropriate deworming program for your kitten. Avoid over the counter deworming products. Many of these products can be useless and even dangerous if improperly given.