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Thread: Question for camera people - Pics in post #40

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  1. #1
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    I've never been very good at figuring out financial stuff like 401k, annuities (not actually sure what it means to be honest), IRA's etc. The only thing I do with my money is CD's at my bank and savings accounts. I figure I'm better off sticking with something I understand. lol

    Thank you for the compliments on my pix.

    Actually most digital cameras have a 'resolution' and 'compression' setting. You should ALWAYS set your camera on the highest resolution (usually expressed in numbers like 1600x1200, 640x480, or Large, Med, Small, Best, Good etc) and the lowest compression setting you have (usually marked as something like extra fine or best). That way you are always shooting at the full capability of your camera. Yes it takes up more room on your memory cards, BUT you never know when you might take that once in a lifetime special pix you want to print as an enlargement. The time it would take to switch your settings and the shot or moment may be gone forever. Plus why spend money on a camera to only shoot it at 1/4 of it's potential? To me that's kinda like buying Ferrari but only driving it at 55mph on the way to work.

    As for 'getting in close' I'm assuming you mean either a Macro function (getting close to a subject that is tiny like my grasshopper pix) or Telephoto (getting a far away subject to appear close up, like a deer standing way out in a field).

    In the case of Macro that would be either built into the lens of a point and shoot or require a special lens (usually rather expensive) for a DSLR/SLR. The reason being is that any camera or lens has a set minimum distance it can focus at. Your eyes work the same way, try reading a newspaper at about 24 inches away, then try reading the same paper with your nose touching it, you can't. Your eyes have exceeded the minimum focusing distance. To read close you'd need a magnifying glass, same thing for a camera lens.

    In the case of Telephoto again it's in the lens whether built into a point and shoot or a special (expensive) separate lens for a DSLR/SLR. Basically it works as binoculars do for our own eyes. Only caution I'll add here is that the DIGITAL zoom setting on ANY point and shoot camera is worthless. Only compare those type of cameras by their OPTICAL zoom. The Digital zoom basically just magnifies and crops the image, same thing you could do in a computer after the fact, but it causes loss of sharpness in your images no matter which way you do it. I always keep my Digital zoom turned off on my point and shoot cameras.

    Sharpness in any camera can be drastically improved by having good light, low ISO setting (100, 50, 25 if the camera goes that low) and a tripod. This is assuming you're not shooting an active two year old running around in the rain on a dark, dreary, overcast day, in which case the tripod isn't going to be enough, you'll need flash to freeze that kinda motion.


    As far as the relationship between megapixels and resolution... Here are some links to read a bit more detail about them. I copied and pasted some relevant parts for a quick summary.

    http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/mpmyth.htm

    In 1999 when digital cameras were only 1.2 or 2 MP, each megapixel mattered if you were making bigger prints.

    Image clarity is more dependant on how you shot the photo than on the number of megapixels. A clean shot from a 3MP camera is much better than a slightly out-of focus shot from a $5,000 12 MP camera.

    A clear image can be printed any size from any modern digital camera. Sure, if you print mural size and look at it from inches away you won't have the sharpness you'd get from 4 x 5" film, but if you shot it properly, it will be sharp enough to look great when viewed from a distance appropriate to the size of the print.

    So long as you have 100 to 150 DPI (dots or pixels per inch), you have plenty for a sharp print viewed at arm's length. This means a 6 MP camera can make prints 30" (75cm) wide and still look great. When was the last time you printed that big?

    Today, even the cheapest cameras have at least 5 or 6 MP, which enough for any size print. How? Simple: when you print three-feet (1m) wide, you stand further back. Print a billboard, and you stand 100 feet back. 6MP is plenty.



    http://digital-cameras.toptenreviews...ixel-myth-.htm

    While the math says that more megapixels are better, the actual results tell a different story. Pictures taken with 3 and 5 megapixel digital cameras are usually indistinguishable from pictures taken with 8 or even 13 megapixel cameras. The New York Times published an article in February 2007 about this very concept. People were unable to distinguish between photos taken at these resolutions, even when the pictures were blown up to 16 by 24 inches. An article in the November 2002 Consumer Reports issue reported that several digital cameras actually took higher quality pictures than cameras with more megapixels.



    http://www.opticsplanet.net/memory-c...-capacity.html
    Picture Resolution Maximum Photo print size

    less than 640 x 480 only wallet-size prints recommended

    640 x 480 or 0.3 megapixel Minimum resolution for 4x6 (results will vary)

    1024 x 768 or 1.2-megapixel Minimum recommended resolution for 4x6

    1600 x 1200 or 2.1-megapixel Minimum recommended resolution for 8x10 or larger

    2,048 x 1,536 or 3.3-megapixel Recommended resolution for 13x19 or larger



    The bigger difference between DSLR's and point and shoots is the sensor size!

    http://www.asiaone.com/Digital/Featu...107-99077.html

    What is more important, for good picture quality in a compact camera, is the size of the sensor. The bigger the sensor, the better the photo. Bigger sensors capture more light. More light captured means better colours and contrast.

    With bigger sensors, photos taken indoors without flash or when the light is failing, have less picture noise - that is the fuzziness and strange bits of colours that weren't there when you took the photo.

    Sadly, compact cameras cannot have huge sensors because they need to stay, well, compact.

    The sensor in a compact can be smaller than the nail of your pinky.

    That is why compacts are bad in shooting in low light conditions without a flash.

    In comparison, the sensor of a professional DSLR is 30 times that of a compact, which explains why DSLRs are so much bigger.

    Ironically, the solution to improving photo quality in a compact is to reduce the megapixel- count.

    All things being equal, having less megapixels means that each pixel in the sensor can now have more light, which in turn improves picture quality.

    So now that we know that we do not need anything more than 8 megapixels for a compact, will camera makers give up the megapixel race?

    Not a chance.


    A film camera actually takes sharper pictures with a wider range of tones from dark to light than a digital camera can (assuming the lens is somewhat decent), although with newer technology the differences are shrinking. The advantage of a digital obviously being immediate viewing of your pix, and ease of sending them by email or online which film lacks.

    As I'm quickly finding out, digital is not necessarily 'cheaper' than film. Yes I just buy a few memory cards and don't have to worry about how many pix I'm shooting, or wait for film developing. But the downside is it requires a large and fast computer if you take as many pix as I do and at a very high resolution setting from a DSLR. Then you get into the processing program which can be anywhere from $100 to photoshop's like $600 program. No digital pix ever looks it's best 'straight out of camera' as they tend to need a bit of sharpening, and sometimes a bit of contrast or saturation added even if everything else is perfect.

    Then if you get into shooting like I have you end up buying a laptop for shooting 'tethered' and viewing your pix accuarately rather than the misleading LCD and histogram on the back of the camera, and a monitor calibrator so you can process your pix to industry standards so when you send it out to print the colors look right, but that's a discussion for another time. ROFL

    Anyways I hope that helped with some of your questions. I'm about as into photography as I am animals (particularly cats) so I LOVE talking about either. ROFL I'm certainly no expert on either, and I don't often use alot of high tech big words, but most people seem to understand what I mean anyways. lol

    RIP Dusty July 2 2007 RIP Sabrina June 16 2011 RIP Jack July 2 2013 RIP Bear July 5 2016 RIP Pooky June 23 2018. RIP Josh July 6 2019 RIP Cami January 6 2022

  2. #2
    I'll have to look at my digital camera and see what those settings are. I think the digital zoom is the one that got closer cropped view, but it was blurry as all get out. The screen looked like it was shrinking around the hawk when I was taking it, and it was blurry and hard to see clearly.

    I know the manual is around here somewhere. I think anyway. I bought it 2nd hand, have all of my cameras cause I am not a pro and didn't want to spend a ton on a new one when I'm just a novice, and don't have the funds to procure a new one either. Would love to buy a really schnazzy one though, lol!

  3. #3
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    Yeah, a point and shoot camera taking a great pix of a far away hawk, probably moving to boot, is gonna be a real challenge if not darn near impossible. That's one area a SLR/DSLR with a telephoto lens makes the difference.

    What kind of camera is it you have if you don't mind me asking? Sometimes I can find manuals online for some cameras depending on what it is.

    I'm not a pro either....yet, just a serious hobbyist for the moment, with a serious love for photography and cameras (and I buy some of my cameras used also).

    I still remember when I got my first SLR back in the early '90's, at the time all I could afford was a Canon Rebel II (yup, that started my love for Canon lol). At the time it cost $400, and I drooled over the Elan cameras, WAY more than I could afford. Funny thing is they couldn't do much that my Rebel couldn't do either, and now both sell on ebay for pocket change, IF they even sell at all.

    Cost of camera doesn't actually mean much. The price I paid for my SLR incidentally was the same price I paid years later for the first and second digital cameras. Both of which don't resell for squat, but from the pictures I posted you can tell they still do a more than adaquate job which is why I have kept them.

    While I myself often spend more money than I need to, or even should at times on cameras and gear. The fact is it always angers me when people get talked into spending huge dollars on fancy equipment that doesn't suit their needs or is even necessary for what they want to do. When many times just a few tips would help them use what they have better and be much more satisfied with the pix, and have more money in the wallet. I've been known to tick off a few sales people at camera stores when I hear them upselling someone on something that obviously isn't going to benefit them for what they want to shoot or how they use it.

    RIP Dusty July 2 2007 RIP Sabrina June 16 2011 RIP Jack July 2 2013 RIP Bear July 5 2016 RIP Pooky June 23 2018. RIP Josh July 6 2019 RIP Cami January 6 2022

  4. #4
    What I have now is an HP Photosmart R817. It's 5x optical zoom, and 8x digital zoom.

    It has all kinds of stuff under the menus, but I have no clue what a lot of it means.

    I wanted something to take good, clear pictures that would also be easy to email.

    I'm not a fan of the HP, and I actually miss my Nikon Coolpix cause the one I have now is NOT as user friendly as that one was. The Nikon was only 2mega pixels, but took some good shots.

    This HP has the longest shutter tiime I'm ever seen. I can't get a moving shot to save my life on it. Or if I'm taking a pic of one of the cat, you know he's gonna change his pose by the time the shutter actually goes off. It's a pain in my butt. I want something that is easy to use, and has a faster shutter speed.

    I did buy it used on ebay, about 2 years ago, and it was about 150.00 with shipping included.

  5. #5
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    Here's the review for your camera from my fav site for looking up cameras.
    http://www.steves-digicams.com/2005_...s/hp_r817.html

    I like that site because it does a good job with showing pix of the menus, and once showed me a trick for one of my cameras that was NOT in my manual!

    From what I'm reading there your camera is something cross between my A40 & S3 with more features built in for novice photographers that email pix alot. Not quite as user friendly for menu access as my Canon's but not the worst I've seen by far.

    The 'shutter time' you're refering to is called 'shutter lag', it's a common thing with any point and shoot digital camera, some are better than others, but they all have it. DSLR/SLR do not have shutter lag (one of the other perks of a very high price tag).

    The trick to dealing with shutter lag (and my A40 has a horrendous one) is to use the pre-focus (shutter button pushed halfway and hold it), wait for the action, then push the shutter button gently all the way down just BEFORE when you want to stop the action, taking alot of shots also helps. After awhile you'll get better at timing the shots to catch the moment you want. According to the site for yoru camra "Shutter lag (time from pressing the shutter release to actually capturing the image) was less than 1/10 of a second when pre-focused" That's not too bad for a P&S camera really.

    Pushing your menu button (big round button on the back) will let you scroll through the different settings your camera has available. This will let you change your ISO speed, white balance, set your image quality etc.

    Your camera also has a built in Macro mode focusing down to 4.7 inches. That is great for shooting close ups of flowers, bugs etc. Just be sure you're not blocking your own light, I've done that too many times myself. lol

    Overall your camera isn't a bad one, it just depends on what you want to do with it whether it suits your needs or not. Best I can tell from reading the detailed review is your camera is more than capable of taking excellent pictures that you could even enlarge past 8x10 size.

    RIP Dusty July 2 2007 RIP Sabrina June 16 2011 RIP Jack July 2 2013 RIP Bear July 5 2016 RIP Pooky June 23 2018. RIP Josh July 6 2019 RIP Cami January 6 2022

  6. #6
    Hrm... basically that means I just don't know how to use it properly. Bad librarian, not reading the manuals!!

    Guess I'll have time to do that now, being on sabbatical now, lol.

    I'll have to check out that site and read up on abbreviations and such (ISO? I thought that was In Search Of... ).

    I just picked up my mom and dad's camera. Oh my goodness. It's a mess!!! Talk about dirty!! My dad should be ashamed for the state it's in. I'm going to go to the one camera shop down here and see what they say about cleaning and refurbing it. My mom said if they'll take it in trade for something else, I can do whatever I want to. Wow.

  7. #7
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    I can't be sure what ISO stands for anymore without googling it, (been using the abbreviation too many years) but basically it would refer to the sensitivity of film (or in this case digital sensor) and the amount of grain (or noise as it's called in digital).

    Here's a quick breakdown; Low ISO numbers mean less grain (noise), but low sensitivity to light. Higher ISO numbers mean more grain (noise), but high sensitivity to light.

    Quick examples: (all hand holding, no tripod)

    Bright sunlight, moving subject - ISO 50-100

    Cloudy day, moving subject - ISO 100-200

    Setting sun, moving subject - ISO 400-800

    Indoors, moving subject - ISO 400-1600

    If you have a tripod and a NON moving subject you can usually get away with lower ISO numbers just use a longer shutter speed.


    This may sound a bit weird but I've had many people do this before and they've said it was helpful.... Post a couple pix you took that you think turned out bad, I should be able to kinda give you a rough idea what caused the problems, or what you can do in the future to prevent them if possible. If you have any details about the lighting, or settings (you can find those under properties or info when you right click your pictures usually), those might help narrow it down a bit more. I have a couple friends I help out by email and that's the only way I've figured out to do it since I'm not there when they take the pix. Up to you if you want to or not.

    RIP Dusty July 2 2007 RIP Sabrina June 16 2011 RIP Jack July 2 2013 RIP Bear July 5 2016 RIP Pooky June 23 2018. RIP Josh July 6 2019 RIP Cami January 6 2022

  8. #8
    Examples, huh? Well, normally I trash the relaly bad pics, but some I haven't gotten to.

    I seem to have the hardest time with close ups. They get blurry as heck. If there is a "macro" on the camera, then I have no idea how to use it or access it.

    Here are 3 examples of cats up close. Badly. One is of Calloway sleeping, the other two are of Honey when he was missing fur on his leg and I couldn't get a good shot of the bare spot.
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  9. #9
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    I think it was to do with how close is the camera to the subject... as you can see in pic #3 the background is perfectly clear... so maybe you want to be too close to the subject it becomes blurry...

    not sure with your camera but I think you have to be at least certain cms (10 I think) away to get in focus closeups...(camera wise, and you can always zoom in from there)... other cameras allow you to be 0mm away from subject but thats super macro and only in certain models
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  10. #10
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    Husky Mom is right. The problem with your pictures is not your camera lacking in anything or not being 'good enough'. You are too close for it to focus on the normal setting. Remember the trying to read a newspaper touching your nose analogy I used earlier? Same thing here.

    Your camera has Macro AND Super Macro according to the website I had linked to earlier. I'm trying to find your manual online so I can tell you how to access that. I'll post back when I find that info.

    BTW, your pix are going to be dark doing Macro or Super Macro if you're using your on camera flash for your light source. If you look in the last two pictures you posted you can see the 'hot spot', or brightest part of the picture is on your hand not the thing you were trying to photograph. That's like wearing a miners cap but trying to see something close up to your face, the light is just not going to hit where you're looking. For problems like that you can try having a lamp or flashlight off to one side a bit for light, or use bright window light.

    RIP Dusty July 2 2007 RIP Sabrina June 16 2011 RIP Jack July 2 2013 RIP Bear July 5 2016 RIP Pooky June 23 2018. RIP Josh July 6 2019 RIP Cami January 6 2022

  11. #11
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    Ok here's something for you.

    http://www.fixya.com/support/p328328...-13498/page-29

    that one tells you how to get to the menu to change image quality, ISO, picture modes etc.


    http://www.fixya.com/support/p328328...-13498/page-38

    If the subject is too close (less than 500 mm or 20 in), move farther away from the subject or use the Macro or Super Macro focus range (see page 42).

    http://www.fixya.com/support/p328328...-13498/page-39

    Macro (120 mm to 1 m or 4.7 to 39.4 in) or Super Macro (30 to 200 mm or 1.2 to 7.9 in) range,


    http://www.fixya.com/support/p328328...-13498/page-42

    To select a focus range setting, press MF (picture of a flower goes here- that's the middle button on the back of your camera under the LCD screen) , use the (right left arrow icons go here) buttons to highlight the desired focus range, then press ('menu/ok button)).

    Setting Description

    Normal Focus Use when taking pictures of subjects greater than 500 mm (20 in) away. Normal Focus is limited to a range of 500 mm (20 in) to infinity. This is the default focus setting.

    Macro Use when taking close-up pictures of subjects between 120 mm to 1 m (4.7 to 39.4 in) away. You can use optical zoom with Macro. With this setting, the camera will not take a picture if it cannot find focus (see page 39).

    Super Macro Use when taking close-up pictures of subjects between 30 and 200 mm (1.2 to 7.9 in). Zoom is not available in Super Macro. With this setting, the camera will not take a picture if it cannot find focus (see page 39). Infinity Use when taking pictures of distant objects and landscapes. Focus is limited to a small region near infinity.

    Manual Focus Allows you to step manually through the full focus range. Use the buttons to adjust the focus. You can determine the focus by observing the image in the Live View screen (see page 43).

    RIP Dusty July 2 2007 RIP Sabrina June 16 2011 RIP Jack July 2 2013 RIP Bear July 5 2016 RIP Pooky June 23 2018. RIP Josh July 6 2019 RIP Cami January 6 2022

  12. #12
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    Oh, and here's the main link to the online version of your user manual. The link goes right to the index, page numbers in the book DO line up with the web page numbers.

    http://www.fixya.com/support/p328328...l-13498/page-5

    RIP Dusty July 2 2007 RIP Sabrina June 16 2011 RIP Jack July 2 2013 RIP Bear July 5 2016 RIP Pooky June 23 2018. RIP Josh July 6 2019 RIP Cami January 6 2022

  13. #13
    Holy cow! I have never ever used those buttons!!! I just took some pics of cat whiskers, lol. I'm amazed! I'll have to do some other things, see how they look, and then post them.


    Pet Talk.. so much more than pets, lol!

  14. #14
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    I had thought that I'd have my laptop today so that I could see the pictures on a clearer screen. But since it doesn't look like that will be happening because of the snow, I'll take my guesses with this subpar monitor.

    Bug catagory:

    1. 3.2 mp
    2. 6 mp

    Fireworks:
    1. 6 mp
    2. 10.1 mp
    3. 2 mp

    Sunset
    1. 3.2 mp
    2. 6 mp

    Beach
    1. 2 mp
    2. 3.2 mp
    3. 6 mp

    Did I get any correct?

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