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Thread: Walking On A Leash UPDATED PICTURES

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  1. #1
    Exactly. As I said before, a dog holding it's head up during a walk is not natural at all and it will not continue to do it when you slack the lead. That nose will go streight to the ground. The key is training the dog to have self control on walks. The dog can sniff the ground, but must also keep up. So a properly trained dog will not be totally consumed with a scent on the sidewalk. Dogs are not visual creatures, they are creatures of scent. A dog that is allowed to smell will be enjoying the walk much more than a dog who has no other choice but to look ahead.

    Be carefull in corrections with a gentle leader- they can snap the neck. It comes with instructions- USE THEM..
    If I remember correctly, your not supposed to snap the leash at all with the head halti. The way it works is basically prevents the dog from moving forward and if it tries to lunge or pull, it ends up turned around and facing you. I'm trying to look it up, but apparantly the gentle leader homepage is down.
    I'VE BEEN FROSTED!!!

  2. #2
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    Thanks for all the tips, i think. All i really want is to be able to walk my dog without her running up and then back and wrapping her leash around me. Im not saying it wont work but im not going to choke my dog into walking before i do that she can just run allover me. As far as having a loose lead, a tight lead or a whatever lead i have a nylon leash so what kind would that be oh yeah and its Red and 5 foot long if that helps, ha ha. But really i have no idea what ur talking about a soft or loose lead or whatever. i havent been on PT in a long time but i dont think u all understand that im not a big animal person. Dont get me wrong i love Daisy but, i dont think i look at her as most of you all do your animals, no offense intended. I live in a small town in Kentucky, almost at the end of a holler, im not out in some big city or anything like that. The only woman i ever knew who put clothes on her animals was an old high school teacher i had and everyone thought she was crazy. All i really need to know is it important to teach them to walk beside you?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by timlewis
    Thanks for all the tips, i think. All i really want is to be able to walk my dog without her running up and then back and wrapping her leash around me. Im not saying it wont work but im not going to choke my dog into walking before i do that she can just run allover me. As far as having a loose lead, a tight lead or a whatever lead i have a nylon leash so what kind would that be oh yeah and its Red and 5 foot long if that helps, ha ha. But really i have no idea what ur talking about a soft or loose lead or whatever. i havent been on PT in a long time but i dont think u all understand that im not a big animal person. Dont get me wrong i love Daisy but, i dont think i look at her as most of you all do your animals, no offense intended. I live in a small town in Kentucky, almost at the end of a holler, im not out in some big city or anything like that. The only woman i ever knew who put clothes on her animals was an old high school teacher i had and everyone thought she was crazy. All i really need to know is it important to teach them to walk beside you?

    I remember you Tim and I remember your dog Daisy. It's been awhile
    hasn't it? Remember all the comotion on PT when you mentioned having
    her ears cropped? I do understand you simply want to know an easy method
    to teach your dog how to walk without pulling you.

    Check out these directions: http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/nopulling.html


    Practice, practice, practice. You'll love when it's so much more fun to
    walk without the fight.
    I've Been Boo'd

    I've been Frosted






    Today is the oldest you've ever been, and the youngest you'll ever be again.

    Eleanor Roosevelt

  4. #4
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    Tough Love

    I use a collar on my dogs when I work with them. I either take them into our basement or in our own yard. Lets Go is a command I use to ask my dog to move out. I keep them on my left side controllling them with the dog leash. When the dog starts tugging I use a quick but not hurtful tug. I allow the dog to move ahead after the first tug if he/she keeps tugging I use a quick but not hurtful tug to give the dog the hint I am in command. It may take lots of what I call corrections but they do catch on. You have to be consistant & I usually work with them about 15 minutes a day to start with. The idea is to teach the dog to not tug & walk along at your command. Praise your dog when he/she does what you want.

  5. #5
    She's a beautiful dog!

    I don't blame you for not wanting to choke her or use methods like that....There's no need for them anyway and I don't understand why people would want to cause pain to their dog when there are ways of doing it with treats and praise and love.

    I was just reading a book last night and it mentioned a new type of harness that is becoming popular. Unlike most harnesses in which you snap the leash on the back, this new design allows you to snap it on in front at the dogs chest. It uses a similar concept to a GL or halti it seems, making it more difficult for the dog to pull and causing the dog to turn around towards you if it does lunge or pull.

    Maybe somebody here who has used one before can share their experience using it.
    I'VE BEEN FROSTED!!!

  6. #6
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    Here is another type. http://www.poodle-oo.com/shopping/prod/29979397.htm Its a anti pull harness. This is one that has been around for a while. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...&N=2001+114007

  7. #7
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    the best way to get a dog under control on leash is to
    get its head in your own control without the control of
    his own head the dog cant lead himself it has to be lead
    but i think the best thing to do is to by a gentle leader ,
    head harness etc.
    A pet is for life not for christmas

    If you BUY you give an animal a home, if you ADOPT/REHOME you give an animal a life

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by SunsetRose
    She's a beautiful dog!

    I don't blame you for not wanting to choke her or use methods like that....There's no need for them anyway and I don't understand why people would want to cause pain to their dog when there are ways of doing it with treats and praise and love.

    I was just reading a book last night and it mentioned a new type of harness that is becoming popular. Unlike most harnesses in which you snap the leash on the back, this new design allows you to snap it on in front at the dogs chest. It uses a similar concept to a GL or halti it seems, making it more difficult for the dog to pull and causing the dog to turn around towards you if it does lunge or pull.

    Maybe somebody here who has used one before can share their experience using it.
    Cesar's way is the only way (IMO)

    Before I knew about Cesar, I was using the methods all of you seem to use. Dog walks in front, even though not pulling. He's had a few problems, and I've tried fixing them with "treats and praise and love". Didn't work in the slightest. Nor did I have the patience to use these things, and when I did, nothing changed.
    Anyway, I did end up getting a GL harness, it's called "Easy Walk". Doesn't work. For me, gentle leader and putting the choke chain at the top of the neck works very well. And yes, they can put their head down when it is at the top of the neck, because there is slack on the leash. This method is acheived by using slack on the leash because if there was none, this just gives the dog more power. This way it is easier to throw the dog "off balance" and snap him out of it when he is misbehaving. When a dog is walking in front, even if it is not pulling, this allows for other problems (agressions, anxiety, etc.) to develop. Like it or not, when a dog is in front you, it IS the pack leader. It is perfectly natural for them to be at your side, because a walk is a mental and physical exercise, the mental part being the dog focusing completely on you. Dogs do this naturally, because when following the pack leader and travel together, as this is how they form bonds. You never see them running in front of them, sniffing off on their own, because that would make THEM the pack leader, because they're running their own parade! (think of sled dogs).


    cianara
    Sara

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by whalelover
    Cesar's way is the only way (IMO)

    Before I knew about Cesar, I was using the methods all of you seem to use. Dog walks in front, even though not pulling. He's had a few problems, and I've tried fixing them with "treats and praise and love". Didn't work in the slightest. Nor did I have the patience to use these things, and when I did, nothing changed.
    Anyway, I did end up getting a GL harness, it's called "Easy Walk". Doesn't work. For me, gentle leader and putting the choke chain at the top of the neck works very well. And yes, they can put their head down when it is at the top of the neck, because there is slack on the leash. This method is acheived by using slack on the leash because if there was none, this just gives the dog more power. This way it is easier to throw the dog "off balance" and snap him out of it when he is misbehaving. When a dog is walking in front, even if it is not pulling, this allows for other problems (agressions, anxiety, etc.) to develop. Like it or not, when a dog is in front you, it IS the pack leader. It is perfectly natural for them to be at your side, because a walk is a mental and physical exercise, the mental part being the dog focusing completely on you. Dogs do this naturally, because when following the pack leader and travel together, as this is how they form bonds. You never see them running in front of them, sniffing off on their own, because that would make THEM the pack leader, because they're running their own parade! (think of sled dogs).


    cianara
    How interesting!! I guess when my dog runs ahead of me to do an obstacle in agility, I'm letting it know it's the pack leader!! Guess I don't know what I'm doing with my Agility Champion dog!!

    Letting your dog go ahead of you when walking certainly does not mean it's in control. If you're still in control of where to go, then it doesn't matter where your dog is. I find some of this "pack leader" stuff quite silly. This would be one. Yes, if your dog is pulling you around, then it is in control. No, if your dog walks in front of you but still responds to your movements to turn and go a different direction, then YOU'RE in control.

    Secondly, you bet the treats didn't work for you. You even admited why. You lack patience. You want a quick fix when a well-trained dog takes time and patience to develop. Sure, a collar pop will get your dog to behave. No one said it wouldn't. But, what collar pops do is damage the relationship between you and your dog. How do I know? As I've posted many times before (so those of you who have read this can skip to the end), I used to train that way. The bond I have with my dogs trained with treats and praise is SO MUCH BETTER than the bond I had with the dogs trained using the force training methods you are mentioning. It's why people are abandoning those "old school" methods (like the one's Cesar uses) for the new positve methods. The results are better, AND the bond is incredible. I know you'll say, "But you don't know, I've got a great bond with my dog." Yes, that's what I thought using those old methods, too. However, I know better now.

    The difference is I've successfully used your method AND mine. The new positive methods are heads and tails better than the old pop and jerk methods. Poor Cesar is living in the stone age of dog training...

    BTW, did you clicker train? You said you lack patience. This is why the fun treat method didn't work for you.
    MACH Aslan RE, MX, MXJ, EAC, EJC, OCC, Wv-N, TN-N, TG-N, R-SN, J-SN, R2-CL, CGC, TDI, FFX-AG (five year old sheltie)
    Jericho OA, NAJ, R1-MCL, CGC, FFX-AP (three year old sheltie)
    Laika NAJ, CGC (nine year old retired American Eskimo)


    I've been defrosted.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by whalelover
    Cesar's way is the only way (IMO)

    slightest. Nor did I have the patience to use these things, and when I did, nothing changed.
    I guess you could technically still think you're in control, but in a dog's mind, if it's the one in front, they think that they're leading, cause they are. Even if you pull to go somewhere else, if it turns and goes in front of you again, same problem.

    The methods you use seem to be dog training. Cesar's methods are dog psychology. Dog training is essentially applying human psychology on a dog (positive reinforcement) in order to get it to do what you want (tricks). Dog psychology is just that. His methods aren't outdated, they're just different than dog training, as he ISN'T and never claims to be a dog trainer. If using dog psychology on a dog is outdated and using human psychology on a dog is the new "better way to do things", something doesn't seem right with that picture.
    Dog training sessions generally are meant to be full of fun and excitement. It's meant to get the dog into a hyper state so that they will be more willing to do what you ask. Lots of people think that their dog is much happier doing this, but lots of times the truth is, he is just excited. And sure, feeding it treats all the time will of course get you a better bond with your dog. You're bribing it.

    If I wanted a dog that was an agility champion, of course I would use your training methods. I'm talking about fixing a dog's problems that are psychological.

    Yes, I have whistle trained, which is the same as clicker training pretty much. It may work to get dogs to do different behaviors/tricks, but it doesn't work as far as fulfilling a dog's needs go. I have never seen Cesar be overly harsh on a dog. "Physical correction in dog training language can range anywhere between a quick jerk on a training collar to an alpha dog roll.
    Beating the sh*t out of a dog is NOT any part of physical correction, nor is it ever recommended."
    Until I see a dog trainer have an entire pack of formerly red zone agressive pit bulls all living together 24/7 in one pack, I'm sticking with Cesar.
    Sara

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by timlewis
    Thanks for all the tips, i think. All i really want is to be able to walk my dog without her running up and then back and wrapping her leash around me. Im not saying it wont work but im not going to choke my dog into walking before i do that she can just run allover me. As far as having a loose lead, a tight lead or a whatever lead i have a nylon leash so what kind would that be oh yeah and its Red and 5 foot long if that helps, ha ha. But really i have no idea what ur talking about a soft or loose lead or whatever. i havent been on PT in a long time but i dont think u all understand that im not a big animal person. Dont get me wrong i love Daisy but, i dont think i look at her as most of you all do your animals, no offense intended. I live in a small town in Kentucky, almost at the end of a holler, im not out in some big city or anything like that. The only woman i ever knew who put clothes on her animals was an old high school teacher i had and everyone thought she was crazy. All i really need to know is it important to teach them to walk beside you?


    I am new to the dog world too, I have only had my dog for a few months, I asked this question too and I was advised to buy a gentle leader it only cost £9.00 dont know what that is in dollars but it changed everything for me, I have a GSD so he is very strong, but now I am in control if I want to let him wander ahead I can and I can also get him to heel too without any effort he learnt very quickly and now we are both happy.
    [Gwen & Puppy

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by gwen
    I am new to the dog world too, I have only had my dog for a few months, I asked this question too and I was advised to buy a gentle leader it only cost £9.00 dont know what that is in dollars but it changed everything for me, I have a GSD so he is very strong, but now I am in control if I want to let him wander ahead I can and I can also get him to heel too without any effort he learnt very quickly and now we are both happy.
    Good job, Gwen!!
    MACH Aslan RE, MX, MXJ, EAC, EJC, OCC, Wv-N, TN-N, TG-N, R-SN, J-SN, R2-CL, CGC, TDI, FFX-AG (five year old sheltie)
    Jericho OA, NAJ, R1-MCL, CGC, FFX-AP (three year old sheltie)
    Laika NAJ, CGC (nine year old retired American Eskimo)


    I've been defrosted.

  13. #13
    I agree that the gentle leader is the greatest tool for instant control. What I really love about it is that I see weaker individuals with big strong dogs pulling them around and really hurting their arms. When they change to a gentle Leader, they have total control and no sore arms. The nice thing is that when the dog is fully trained and knows what is expected, you dispense of it and your dog will walk on a flat collar and loose lead. I've seen some owners keep them on their dogs for aggression issues, but then that would be another category. I mostly see this at Pet Smart, where owners want to bring their dogs, but can't control the aggression. This way they get to bring the dog and everyone is happy.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwen
    I am new to the dog world too, I have only had my dog for a few months, I asked this question too and I was advised to buy a gentle leader it only cost £9.00 dont know what that is in dollars but it changed everything for me, I have a GSD so he is very strong, but now I am in control if I want to let him wander ahead I can and I can also get him to heel too without any effort he learnt very quickly and now we are both happy.

    Congrats on having the GSD experience. My RB Buddy was Shep/Huskie
    mix and a delight to live with. I accomplished the same training for Buddy
    but, used a different method. I am so glad it worked.
    I've Been Boo'd

    I've been Frosted






    Today is the oldest you've ever been, and the youngest you'll ever be again.

    Eleanor Roosevelt

  15. #15
    Tim,

    With her you will want a Gentle Leader (GL) vs. a Haltie. I actually prefer the Haltie, but it's only for dogs who have regular sized snouts. She'll do best with a Gentle Leader that can be sized to fit her snout.

    I would expect most pet stores - even small ones - should have a GL or be able to order you a GL. the advantage of a large store like a Petsmart or a Petco is you can get help from a trainer in sizing the GL (assuming the trainer at that store is a decent trainer, which isn't always the case). I'm sure you can get a GL on the internet pretty easily as well.

    You'll want to read the instructions and watch the video. The dog has to be trained to the GL properly. It's a great tool when trained correctly.
    MACH Aslan RE, MX, MXJ, EAC, EJC, OCC, Wv-N, TN-N, TG-N, R-SN, J-SN, R2-CL, CGC, TDI, FFX-AG (five year old sheltie)
    Jericho OA, NAJ, R1-MCL, CGC, FFX-AP (three year old sheltie)
    Laika NAJ, CGC (nine year old retired American Eskimo)


    I've been defrosted.

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