need help with mickey...

we picked up mickey from the breeder and yesterday he was playful but not as hyper. after a few minutes of playing, he would usually lay down and sleep. today is a different story. i took him out to "potty" a few minutes ago and after he did his business, we started playing. we started playing this game without me realizing it. since he is a sheltie and has that herding instinct, he was watching me so closley as i ran up and down the yard with him. soon, whenever i tried crossing past him, he would growl and try to make me back up. i know he was playing, but i'm wondering if we continue this game, it will give him the impression like he is the dominant one. could it? plus, he is going through that chewing stage and doesn't listen when i tell him "no". he has also realized then whenever he goes outside, he gets a treat (only after he does his "potty") so as soon as we take him out, he starts jumping us and looking for his treat. is this normal, or should i be careful with something? thanks :)

Well I don't know too much, but I do think that the game could make him think he's the alpha dog and he's more dominant than you. But I could be wrong. Are you going to try to take him to obeidence school? If you do that should help you learn how to show him that you are in charge and not him.

actually, obediance school might be a good idea...i'll be looking around. how old would they be when they would first enroll? thanks :)

-- we also tried to take him on a walk today...he didn't move. i guess he was scared. i'm gonna try to take him walking around the backyard tomorrow on the leash just so he sees its okay...

Hi prima!

I didn't start puppy classes with Oz, until he was 4 mos old due to
some unexpected job responsibilites, but if memory serves I
believe they can't start until they're 10 weeks old and have
completed their 2nd set of shots.

I use to run around the yard and have Oz chase me.
It's a good opportunity to naturally teach them to want to
come to you, while they're puppies. Once he was running
after me, I'd stop and kneel down and call him to me. He'd
come bounding into my arms, then we'd start all over again.
There was never any growling or attempting to herd me though.
Maybe that's because I had control of the game, by calling him
to me. Not sure. If he growled though, I'd stop the game.

One of the first commands I taught Oz was sit, because he
was jumping all over me for his treats too. He now has to
sit calmly, before he gets his dinner or a treat. I've just recently
started doing this with his toys, when we play too, because lately
he started jumping and lunging at his toys. After a few
scratches, I decided I needed to stop that pronto, so we've been
working on that the last week and he's getting much better.

For the chewing, try a sharp "Unt Uh" vs. "No". I find dogs pay
attention to that sound better than "No". Then right away
give him something you want him to chew on and praise him to
high heaven, when he's chewing on that.

Par...

I use the loud "OUCH!" when teaching bite inhibition. My eyes are burning and I'm tired so I'm going to direct you to a website instead of explaining it myself. Sorry, too tired to make a long post :o

This isn't as complete information as I was hoping to find. I'll post more in a bit if you want:

http://www.understandinganimals.com/...nhibition.html

thanks :)

well, mickey is becoming a bundle of trouble with his chewing. the accidents are less and he seems to understand when to go, he must come to us. the chewing is gonna be hard though. he doesn't listen when we tell him no. i even tried the "uh-oh" and different sounds, but he ignores them. yesterday, my mom put him in the cage because he was acting so badly. he kinda got the message after that. oh well, i guess it's only gonna go up from here :rolleyes:

btw ~ that website is very helpful :D

As soon as he gets to the age where he could enroll in puppy classes, I would do that ASAP. If they ignore your verbal corrections for the mouthing, it could mean they're on the dominant side. Puppy classes will help socialize him and teach him some manners. If he's going to be a really dominant dog, its important for him to learn manners now while he's young.

GOOD LUCK!

I haven't really had too bad of a problem with Cooper chewing, but sometimes he will grab something that he's not supposed to have. What I've been doing is something my Mom suggested:
fill an empty pop can with 15 pennies and tape it closed. When Cooper is being bad, I will either shake it or thow it at him. NOT HIT HIM, just in his general direction to make him stop what he is doing, and then praise him. It's funny because when we drive in the car now, he's too large for any of my carriers, so I will put him in the passenger seat and he will usually sit nice or lay down. Sometimes he will try to get in my lap while driving, so I put a can in the drink holder between the seats. Now when he tries to get to me, he steps on the can and it rattles a little and he goes back to the seat and sits nicely and looks out the window!!! I was shocked!! He's teaching himself!! :lol: When Cooper grabs something he's not supposed to have, I make a "ahhh-uhhh" kinda noise, it seems to work better than "no". If he still doesnt listen I use the can. When he's biting me, I use "no bite" and if that doesn't work I make a loud "cry" noise like they do when they are hurting. That worked in a hurry!!! Then he started licking me instead.

Also Cooper does have a crate that he stays in as well. We never use it as punishment... I don't really know if this is a good thing to do or not, but we do feed him there, and he stays there while we are gone and through the night. He doesn't seem to mind being in there and stopped crying after about a week. Now he will go in there just to lay down on occasion or to chew his rawhides. I think if it's a place you use as punishment, they won't like to be in there.

Maybe when he's being bad, leash him in the house and only let him in a certain area. When you can't watch him, crate him.

I haven't taken Cooper to class or anything, but I've been thinking about it... I posted something today about the problem I'm having with him... he's being very protective of his treats with other dogs... I can take anything away from him, when another dog even walks past, he sounds like a big dog ready to kill over his bone!!!

Hope some of this helps. It's been working for me so far... :)
Good luck!

I would immediately stop the game of chase. Since this is a normal instinct in your dogs breed to punish him for it would be unfair. Just don't do anything to invoke the herding instinct over you. There are plenty of games you can do to get your pup to run and expend energy other than chasing you. Try playing ball or frisbee.

Puppy kindergarten is for pups up to the age of 5 months. After your dog has his second set of shots you can enroll him in a class. This is a great way for the dog to socialize with other canines to understand he is not human and not alpha over you.

When you say he jumps for his treats, does he get them? As long as you inforce the unwanted jumping he will continue to do it. You need to teach a sit (I have pups as young as 8 weeks old understanding this command) and give the command. When pup sits, immediately give the treat. When he jumps give a firm OFF or NO JUMP or whatever command you want to associate with this unwanted behavior and DO NOT GIVE THE PUP THE TREAT! When I come home I make the dogs sit before I even give them a little pat on the head. When company comes, I do not open the door until the dogs are sitting or on a down. The key is to remember that what behavior you reward with a treat is the behavior you will get!

Puppy nipping is normal behavior for pups. They learn by putting things in their mouth. When pup nips you your response will tell him it is ok or it is not ok. Yell OUCH and stop play immediately. Ignore pup completely for a couple of minutes. When you resume play do exactly the same thing everytime he nips. He will soon associate nipping with what causes play to stop and he will not do it anymore since his goal is to get you to play.

Chewing is difficult since they are teething for the first year and depending on the breed up to the second year. I make sure all my chewies do not represent something they are not allowed to chew. No old shoes, no socks, no old slippers. I have plenty of Nylabones and large soup bones around. When I find the pup chewing what they are not suppose to I give a "DROP IT" command and take it off him. Then I make sure to give him the item he is allowed to chew and praise him. You need to keep a close eye on him while he is learning what is acceptable and what is not. Ice cubes are another favorite of my dogs since the ice cold feels good on their teething gums.


One other thought on chewing. Have a name for each of your dogs toys so when you say go get duck or go get elephant or whatever the squeeky toy is they associate it with a particular toy. This way they will also know what stuffies are acceptable and what stuffies aren't.
Hope this helped.

Shelties are very smart & very active dogs. They bore easily & need to keep busy or they can easily become destructive! I strongly reccomend a puppy class. And possibly continue with obedience or agility or flyball. As far as chewing, do not give raewhides until he learns what he can & can not chew. Good luck

obediance classes are definately a must..... until then work with him yourself, with the basic comands. even if he already knows them it will show him that he has to listen, but dont forget to teach him new tricks.
Also, keep putting him in the cage when he is "naughty" if it seems to be working.
Wish u tons of luck!!!!!!!!!!:) :( :)

~ Jess ~

by the way..... maybe u could get into agility or flyball?????

:cool: