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I'm SO lost when it comes to my camera. :o
I need to buy a lens for my camera so I am able to take fast action pictures from up in the stands when my brother in law starts playing football at college this fall.
I started looking but my head is spinning!!!
I'm 100% clueless as to what I need!
3.2....2.2...3X...
Filter?? Adapter??? Macro lens??
Do I get something like this package??
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/sou...temid=10237376
LOL... I guess weŽre on the same boat...
IŽm also looking into getting a couple lens for my S3... as far as I know we NEED to get an adapter otherwise any lens we get is useless as it canŽt be "screwed" on without it...
then we have so few choices... wide angle, telephoto and filters...
if you want action shots youŽll need a fast shutter which S3 and S5 have, you can set it up to 1000 or 2000...hey even 200-400 will get nice decent ones... but youŽll need it to be pretty bright out there so you can get nice shots with such fast shutter...and/or setting your aperture number lowest (low number = big wide open aperture so more light gets in)
but if you want to zoom from far youŽll need a telephoto, glad thing our cameras have IS (Image Stabilizer) because with bigger (longer) lens they are prone to blurs due to moving.... the 2.2x 3x etc are just how far youŽll like them to zoom/focus....
The different numbers with x's next to them refer to the amount of zoom the lens provides.
If a lens is a 80-200mm f/4.5-5.6, it means that it's a telephoto (good for shots at a distance) and that the lowest aperature on 200mm (most zoomed in) is f/5.6. Something like an 80-200mm f/2.8 would be better because that means when you're zoomed in to the max, you're still at f/2.8. A lens with a smaller aperature number is preferred because if you're shooting at f/2.8 (large amount of light), it means you can choose a quicker shutter speed, which is essential for action shots. At f/5.6, you get less light in so you may need to choose a slower shutter speed, which can result in blurs.
If you're shooting a football game, I'd recommend something like the 80-200mm lens. Even 200mm may not zoom in close enough. I'm assuming the games are during the day so you can probably get away with a lens that is f/4.5-5.6, which is much cheaper than it's f/2.8 version.
You'll definitely need an adapter to put the lens on an S5. Filter isn't required but desired as they're very affordable and will prolong the life of your (very expensive) lens.
My understanding is the OP is talking about the adaptor lenses you can buy for the S5.
http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/co...&modelid=15207
(scroll to the bottom of that link shows all the accessories available for the S5 including adaptor 'lenses'.)
Since the S5 is a P&S camera, to my knowledge you cannot add a regular SLR/DSLR lens to it with any kind of adaptor.
Have you experimented with what the Canon S5 is capable of doing with it's "standard" lense?Quote:
Originally Posted by pitc9
Specs say the supplied lense is a 12x Optical Zoom, with a 4x Digital Zoom;
Combined that's 48x Zoom ...
That otta be enough ZOOM-power to count the stitches on the ball from the end zone.
Shutter speed ranges from 15 sec to 1/3200 sec ...
that's fast enough to freeze a hummingbird's wings!
I'd say you have enough ZOOM and Speed to handle a football game ...
maybe a long session curled up with the Camera's Instruction Book would be in order.
Specs:
<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=3 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=spec_name vAlign=top width=116>Type of Camera
</TD><TD class=spec_value vAlign=top>Compact digital still camera with built-in flash,
12x Optical / 4x Digital /
48x Combined Zoom
with Optical Image Stabilizer (IS) System
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- Separator Line STARTS --><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD height=28>http://www.usa.canon.com/sys/images/dot_line_sm.gif</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- Separator Line ENDS --><TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=3 border=0><!-- Group Title STARTS --><TBODY><TR><TD class=spec_header colSpan=2>Image Capture Device</TD></TR><!-- Group Title ENDS --><TR><TD class=spec_name vAlign=top width=116>Type
</TD><TD class=spec_value vAlign=top>8.0 Megapixel, 1/2.5 inch type Charge Coupled Device (CCD)
</TD></TR><TR><TD class=spec_name vAlign=top width=116>Total Pixels
</TD><TD class=spec_value vAlign=top>Approx. 8.3 Megapixels
</TD></TR><TR><TD class=spec_name vAlign=top width=116>Effective Pixels
</TD><TD class=spec_value vAlign=top>Approx. 8.0 Megapixels
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- Separator Line STARTS --><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD height=28>http://www.usa.canon.com/sys/images/dot_line_sm.gif</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- Separator Line ENDS --><TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=3 border=0><!-- Group Title STARTS --><TBODY><TR><TD class=spec_header colSpan=2></TD></TR><!-- Group Title ENDS --><TR><TD class=spec_name vAlign=top width=116></TD><TD class=spec_value vAlign=top>6.0-72.0mm f/2.7-3.5 (35mm film equivalent: 36-432mm)
</TD></TR><TR><TD class=spec_name vAlign=top width=116></TD><TD class=spec_value vAlign=top>4x
</TD></TR><TR><TD class=spec_name vAlign=top width=116></TD><TD class=spec_value vAlign=top>Normal: 1.6 ft./50cm-infinity (WIDE), 3.0 ft./90cm-infinity (TELE)
Macro: 3.9 in.-1.6 ft./10-50cm (W)
Super Macro: 0-3.9 in./0-10cm (W)
</TD></TR><TR><TD class=spec_name vAlign=top width=116>
---------------
<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=3 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=spec_header colSpan=2>Aperture and Shutter</TD></TR><!-- Group Title ENDS --><TR><TD class=spec_name vAlign=top width=116>Maximum Aperture
</TD><TD class=spec_value vAlign=top>f/2.7 (W) - f/3.5 (T)
</TD></TR><TR><TD class=spec_name vAlign=top width=116>Shutter Speed
</TD><TD class=spec_value vAlign=top>15-1/3200 sec. (settable in Tv and M)
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- Separator Line STARTS --><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD height=28>http://www.usa.canon.com/sys/images/dot_line_sm.gif</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
</TD><TD class=spec_value vAlign=top>TTL Autofocus
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- Separator Line STARTS -->
Angie, if all else fails I've used my S3 to take pictures of college football games from the stands. I would definitely recommend a tripod at the very least.
Well Phred... when you put it that way.. guess I just need more skoolin' on what I have!
I've taken pictures of a football game before and come to think of it, it does zoom in far enough, but the pictures were fuzzy.
I think that means I need to make changes to speed up my shutter?
(it that right??... Anyone... ???)
NOW we're getting somewhere! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by pitc9
"Action Shots" where you want to stop or "freeze" the action require you to either
"pan" the camera (move it in the direction the subject is moving) OR
to use a FAST shutter speed.
FAST shutter speeds also help reduce blurring caused by movement of the camera
(caused by *shaky* photographers). :p
The S5 has "Image Stabilization" - a feature that also reduces the effects of
"the *shaky* photographer". Be sure this "feature" is turned on or active
when you're
shooting highly 'Zoomed' shots - High Zoom (bringing the subject in REAL close from far away)
accentuates ANY amount of camera shake! Ashley's advisory to use a TRIPOD (or
even a mono-pod stick) is good advice! (Or ask the guy seated if front if he minds
you resting your camera on his shoulder.)
Read up on How To use the pre-programmed settings ... Canon has "Sports" settings where
the camera forces a fast shutter speed while it opens the aperture (iris) to compensate
by letting more light in. It's still an "automatic" setting, where the camera tries to
make all the set-up decisions, but you're also telling the camera that you want it
to favor the Fastest Shutter Speed possible with a good exposure. Good for Dawg Shots, too.
PS:
No shame in reading the camera book - I keep "the book" for my lil Canon in the Bus glove box ...
No Way can I remember all that stuff!
(Last 4th - I'm trying to *read da book* by the glow of the cell phone display to
set up for fireworks shots.) :rolleyes: (Plan ahead)
one thing to kkep in mind if you full zoom... youŽll get noise in your pics... the meter that shows how much youŽve zoomed either12x 15x or full 48x will change color in the bar part once itŽs past the blue part and turns yellow then the noise will became greater.......
if you use the sports settign on the camera... youŽll also get noise becuase the ISO set for that is too high...also the flash doesnŽt goes off in sports mode :rolleyes: you may wanna try the M mode and set the shutter speed over the 250 mark but a 1000 would be even better for rapid sports (or whatever you see works for you)... panning is also a good idea and works wonders as the background gets blurry and the subjets is in focus thus a neat outcome...
the aperture should be a small number to allow more light in (this also use what works for you best due to the day conditions)...
just play around a lil and see which one comes better and shoot with it..
Yup, Image Stabilization is ON.
Tri-pod sounds like a great idea!
I've used the sports setting while he was wrestling, it worked pretty good for the most part, but being an inside sport, and the flash doesn't work on that setting made for some dark pictures.
I know.... read the book....but I have the attention span of a gnat and get cranky when I don't find the answers right away.:o
But I WILL sit down and play around with it!
Good thing I still have a few months before I have to have this all figured out!
THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!