Persistant Barking

Help me! My 11-month old Kelpie, Jessie, is normally a lovely dog, but she has a frustrating tendancy to bark at anything and everything, from bees to birds, apples to airplanes. Me and my family are at wits end trying to do something. We've tried discouraging her briefly (Until we found that to be a bad idea), ignoring her, praising her not barking, muzzling her, and nothing works. We're about to spend $100 on a citronella collar, which even then, has no guarantee. We're out of ideas, so I thought i'd send out a plea for anyone out here who has any.

Has anyone had the same problem? If so, How is it prevented?

Thanks in advance,

Sharn.

Did you try rewarding her with a food treat whenever she shuts up, even if it's only for a few seconds? When she's barking say "quiet" and show her the treat to get her attention, soon as she's quiet give her the treat. She will probably start yapping soon after she took the food but keep doing this consistantly and it may pay off in time.

http://waterart.50webs.com
http://puppychi.blogspot.com

A tired dog is a good dog.

Kelpies are VERY high energy dogs. How often do you exercise your pup and what kind of exercise do you provide her? What about mental stimulation? If you don't give them a job to do, they will find something to do and it seems like your pup has taken to barking quite well. Take her for a hardy jog in the morning. Bring her out in the afternoon and let her fetch and run around. In the evening, brush up on your basic obedience. While you're doing that, start teaching "Quiet". Do *something* to challenge her mind. Remember, mental stimulation is just as important as physical stimulation.

Is there something specific that you know will make your dog bark? For example, does she bark if you stare at her? Show this trigger to her to get her to start barking. Once she stops, do a hand motion and treat her. Repeat this until she starts to understand what the hand signal means. Then, you can introduce the word "Quiet".

Also, where is she when she starts to bark? Is she outside? Would she rather be inside? Try to assess why she's barking and what it is that makes her stop barking (i.e. her coming inside makes her stop barking). It'll give you a clearer idea of what she's doing and why. Hope that helps!

when you find out, let me know lol I look forward to saterdays...Rustys old family takes him home for the day, so I dont have to deal with his persistant yapping.

I have some ideas but want to wait for answers to Giselle's questions
first.

Just a suggestion... Even though Huskies aren't known as agility Koli has taken to it quite well. (I have seen Kelpies in agility.) I don't do anything professionally, heck i don't even have real equipment. I even have such a small yard i can only have one or two things set up at once. Instead of weave polls i use two small flower pots and a soccer ball. For a jump i use a sturdy branch and a flower pop, the other end propped up on the porch. (It's a very low jump since she is a Husky.) Having an intelligent dog you have to use your intelligence and be creative.

Treats, praise, and hand signals will be your best friends.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Giselle

A tired dog is a good dog.

Kelpies are VERY high energy dogs. How often do you exercise your pup and what kind of exercise do you provide her? What about mental stimulation? If you don't give them a job to do, they will find something to do and it seems like your pup has taken to barking quite well. Take her for a hardy jog in the morning. Bring her out in the afternoon and let her fetch and run around. In the evening, brush up on your basic obedience. While you're doing that, start teaching "Quiet". Do *something* to challenge her mind. Remember, mental stimulation is just as important as physical stimulation.

Is there something specific that you know will make your dog bark? For example, does she bark if you stare at her? Show this trigger to her to get her to start barking. Once she stops, do a hand motion and treat her. Repeat this until she starts to understand what the hand signal means. Then, you can introduce the word "Quiet".

Also, where is she when she starts to bark? Is she outside? Would she rather be inside? Try to assess why she's barking and what it is that makes her stop barking (i.e. her coming inside makes her stop barking). It'll give you a clearer idea of what she's doing and why. Hope that helps!

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If you can devote the time, money, and space for another pet, how about a cat? The dog will play with the cat for hours then he will sleep.

Why does my dog bark?

If you ever wonder if your dog’s bark is worse than his proverbial

bite, the answer may lie no further than your next-door neighbor. Some

canine behavior problems, such as house soiling, affect only a dog’s

family. But problems such as escaping and excessive barking can result in

neighborhood disputes and violations of animal control ordinances, and

that means problems with your pet can soon become “people problems.”

Learn Why Your Dog Barks

If your dog’s “talkative nature” has created tension with your neighbors, then it’s a good idea to discuss the problem with them. It’s perfectly normal and reasonable for dogs to bark from time to time, just as children make
noise when they play outside. But continual barking for long periods of time is a symptom of a problems that needs addressing—from the perspectives of your neighbors and your dog.

First, determine when and for how long your dog barks and what causes him to bark. You may need to do some clever detective work to obtain this information, especially if the barking occurs when you’re not home. Ask your

neighbors what they see and hear, drive or walk around the block and watch and listen for a while, or start a tape recorder or video camera when you leave for work. With a little effort you should be able to find out which of the

common problems discussed below is the cause of your dog’s barking.

Social Isolation/Frustration/Attention-Seeking

Your dog may be barking out of boredom and loneliness if: He’s left alone for long periods of time without opportunities to interact with you.

His environment is relatively barren, without companions or toys.

He’s a puppy or adolescent (under three years old) and doesn’t have other outlets for his energy. He’s a particularly active type of dog (like the herding or sporting breeds) who needs to be occupied to be happy.

Recommendations

Expand your dog’s world and increase his “people time” in the following ways:

Walk your dog at least twice daily—it’s good exercise, both mentally and physically. Walks should be more

than just “potty breaks.” Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee and practice with him as often as possible.

Teach your dog a few commands or tricks and practice them every day for five to 10 minutes.

Take a dog training class with your dog. This allows you and your dog to work together toward a common goal. To help fill the hours that you’re not home, provide safe, interesting toys to keep your dog busy, such as

Kong type toys filled with treats or busy-box toys. Rotating the toys will make them seem new and interesting.

If your dog is barking to get your attention, make sure

he has sufficient time with you on a daily basis (petting, grooming, playing, exercising). Keep your dog inside when you’re unable

to supervise him. Let your neighbors know that you are actively

working on the problem. If your dog is well socialized and you have your

employer’s permission, take your dog to work with you every now and then.

When you have to leave your dog for extended periods of time, take him to a “doggie day care center,” hire a pet sitter or dog walker, or have a trusted friend or neighbor walk and play with him.


Territorial/Protective Behavior

Your dog may be barking to guard his territory if:

The barking occurs in the presence of “intruders,” which may include the mail carrier, children walking to school, and other dogs or neighbors in adjacent yards. Your dog’s posture while he’s barking appears threatening—tail held high and ears up and forward. You’ve encouraged your dog to be responsive
to people and noises outside.

Recommendations

Teach your dog a “quiet” command. When he begins to bark at a passerby, allow two or three barks, then say “quiet” and interrupt his barking by shaking a can filled with pennies or squirting water at his mouth with a spray

bottle or water squirt gun. His surprise should cause him to stop barking momentarily. While he’s quiet, say “good quiet” and pop a tasty treat into his mouth. Remember, the loud noise or water squirt isn’t meant to punish him; rather it’s to distract him into being quiet so you can reward him.

If your dog is frightened by the noise or squirt bottle, find an alternative method of interrupting his barking (perhaps throw a toy or ball near him).

Desensitize your dog to the stimulus that triggers the barking. Teach him that the people he views as intruders are actually friends and that good things happen to him when these people are around. Ask someone to walk by your yard, starting far enough away so that your dog isn’t barking, then

reward quiet behavior and correct responses to a “sit” or “down” command with special treats such as little pieces of cheese. As the person gradually comes closer, continue to reward your dog’s quiet behavior. It may take several sessions before the person can come close without your

dog barking. When the person can come very close without your dog barking, have him feed your dog a treat or throw a toy for him.

If your dog barks while inside the house when you’re home, call him to you, have him obey a command such as “sit” or “down,” and reward him with praise and a treat. Don’t encourage this type of barking by enticing your dog to bark at things he hears or sees outside. Remember to pay attention to your dog when he’s being quiet too, so that he comes to associate such behavior with attention and praise. Have your dog spayed or neutered to decrease territorial behavior.

Fears and Phobias

Your dog’s barking may be a response to something he’s afraid of if:

The barking occurs when he’s exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms, firecrackers, or construction noise. Your dog’s posture indicates fear—ears back, tail held low.

Recommendations

Identify what’s frightening your dog and desensitize him to it. You may need professional help with the desensitization process. Talk to your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medication while you work on behavior modification. During thunderstorms or other frightening times, mute noise from outside

by leaving your dog in a comfortable area in a basement or windowless bathroom, and turn on a television, radio, or loud fan. Block your dog’s access to outdoor views that might be causing a fear response by closing curtains or doors to certain rooms. Avoid coddling your dog so that he doesn’t think that he is being rewarded for his fearful behavior.

Separation Anxiety

Your dog may be barking due to separation anxiety if: The barking occurs only when you’re gone and starts as soon as, or shortly after, you leave.

Your dog displays other behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you from room to room, greeting you frantically, or reacting anxiously whenever you prepare to leave.

Your dog has recently experienced a change in the family’s schedule that means he’s left alone more often; a move to a new house; the death or loss of a family member or another family pet; or a period at an animal shelter or boarding kennel.

Recommendations

Some cases of separation anxiety can be resolved using Counter conditioning and desensitization techniques.

Successful treatment for some cases may also require the use of medication prescribed by your veterinarian.

Bark Collars

There are several types of bark collars on the market, and

generally they are not recommended don’t recommend them. The main drawback of any bark collar is that it doesn’t address the underlying cause of the barking. You may be able to eliminate the barking, but symptom substitution may occur and your dog may begin digging or escaping, or become destructive or even aggressive. A bark collar must be used in conjunction with behavior modification that addresses the reason for the barking, as outlined above. You should never use a bark collar on your dog if his barking is due to separation anxiety or fears or phobias because punishment always makes fear and anxiety behaviors worse.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MyPetTherapyDogs

You should never use a bark collar on your dog if his barking is due to separation anxiety or fears or phobias because punishment always makes fear and anxiety behaviors worse.

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I have to respectfully disagree on making this a blanket statement. Jasper makes himself more agitated when he barks. When he wears his bark collar, he is more apt to settle down and just wait for me to return.

I realize this isn't always the case and in many cases of anxiety a bark collar would be a bad idea, I just didn't want to let that stand as a blanket statement.

To the OP: I think you've got some great advice here. I'd love to hear the answers to Giselle's questions so that we can help you a little better, and I think we need a picture, because Kelpies are undeniably adorable!

Hi Kathy:
That's find to disagree with the statement. You are correct, it is a "Blank" statement. I personally think each dog is an individual and each case can be treated differently. Honestly, personally I am not against using bark collars if they work. I believe you should use them with behavior modification techniques and eventually wean the dog off of them completely. Many people don't do this and use it forever. That I don't believe in.
However, I will add this , Within the past year, I have gotten 2 calls from people needing assistance with with their dogs behavior. The main reason they called me was "Barking"
Obviously each case was different and in two of the particular cases, the dogs never ceased to stop barking. One of the owners was particularly frightened that his landlord would make him get rid of the dog so he was on a quick mission to fix his dogs problems. The dog ended up having classic seperation anxiety.
He was crating the dog (which only made it worse) and also using an electric bark collar to stop her barking (which honestly did help a lot)
She was also mutilating her paws badly.
Finally, I suggested that he take her to a vet behaviorist for a consult and help. I had tried every book up my sleeve.
He did and paid a high fee to get the consult ($250.00) an hour.
The vet behaviorist gave him some behavior modification techniques to use (which were similar to the ones he had already been doing with me) But also said that he should immediately stop using the bark collar as it was intensifying her fears. This was the one thing I did not tell him because I did not think it would be a problem. He stopped the bark collar &
The dog ended up on Prozac therapy and utilizing that along with the behavior modification techniques. The owner was able to stop all of her issues including her barking. He still keeps in touch with me and the dog is doing great.

The other case I was involved with was a dog that never ever stopped barking. The owners tried everything they could think of. When they finally decided to purchase a bark collar, he got zapped (not bad at all) He became so fearful of the collar he was taking two steps back instead of forward. The bark collar made him very very skiddish.
Then she purchased a spray bark collar and he had 0 reaction to that.
I suggested they try cueing the dog to the quiet times instead of using bark collar therapy and rewarding. That did work. It honestly worked perfect. The only problem with it was that they worked a lot and he barked all the time. So when they were not there to cue him he still barked. Finally, I told them that maybe they might try doggie day care a few times a week because he was obviously bored and he always wanted to be with people and was barking to get people to pay attention to him.(Non stop) I also suggested they begin using NILIF at home and combine the few days at daycare to get social time and not becoming bored, along with the owners taking charge of their household alongside the cueing for quiet time when they were home, They did! It worked! I saw them a few months ago and he is doing marvelous.

So, I guess the bottom line is that every dog is an indivudial and you should try to get to the root of the dog's specific problem and go from there.

If the bark collar works than great if not, you need to explore further and go from there.

Well, I am signing off the board now and am off to the store for some cat food and treats now.

Have a great morning.
Susan

The barking collar is a good idea but you have to do training concurrently to make it permanent. If you don't then the barking will continue once the collar is off. I have one for my dog but I'm still working with her to control her barking (more for when I leave the house). But the key is to not reward unwanted behaviours. If you know what causes her to bark, expose her to it and let her rip. Show him the treat and once she stops,. wait 5 seconds and then give her a treat. If she continues to bark before the 5 seconds is up, then don't treat her. If you give her a treat right when she stops, you are actually rewarding her barking. She has to associate the treat with her calm behavoiur. ONce you've successfully gotten to 5 seconds of peace, gradually increase the time. This will probably be a lot of work but it will be worth it. There is also a product which you put in a room and when the dog barks, it emits a high pitched sound which dogs can hear. Bit the dog may eventually learn to bark louder. I think the collar is the best idea.