I find SunsetRose's post rather harsh and full of incorrect statements.
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They get HUGE. A male iguana can get 5, 6 feet long. When they get that big, they practically need free roam of a whole room. Either that or a custom built enclosure that takes up half a room. And custom built enclusures are not cheap, especially if you don't have a family member who will build it for you.
Agreed. My iguana has a whole room to himself. Justin built him an "iguana jungle gym" to climb and "play" on and it certainly wasn't cheap. They also need a large enough water "container" to fit completely inside of. They love to swim, but they also poop in their water. We keep a dog water bowl in his room filled with clean drinking water in addition to a horse trough that he poops in. The poopy water needs to be very well cleaned out after every poop. He doesn't know that he shouldn't drink poopy water so getting it cleaned out as soon as possible is important.
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2) They have an attitude. You can get an iguana, spoil it, give it an excellent diet, have a super nice enclosure for it....and it's not going to appreciate it one bit and it's still going to bite you, tail whip you, run from you and give you open mouth threats. Even once they are tame, they are still wild animals and can act like one at any given moment. Now take the fact that they get huge, and add it to the fact that they can be aggressive. What does this equal? It equals the possibility of a bite that will send you to the hospital to get stitches.
I agree with very little of that. If you properly care for your iguana it won't bite or tail whip you, actually the opposite- they can be rather sweet. My iguana love to be with us (he can be timid around strangers though). If you neglect your iguana than there's a good chance it will do those things. Yes a bite can and probably will send you to the hospital for stitches.
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3) Nutritional demands. Now this can get so complicated it's not even funny. You have to keep the diet varied so it doesn't loose interest. You have to remember that what iggy likes today, iggy might refuse to eat and suddenly decide it hates it tomorrow. There are foods you must absolutely avoid all together like apple and cabbage. There are foods that can only be given in moderation like carrots. Carrots are high in calcium oxalates which can crystalize calcium and cause MBD. You have to watch calcium. They must be supplemented with calcium or they will get MBD (metabolic bone disease) and their bones can literally turn into rubber and they'll die.
Yes their diet can be complicated at first, but once you learn what they need it becomes rather simple. Yes their diet needs to be varied, just like people. They will have their favorites, but that doesn't mean they should only get that. They CAN have apple! They can also have cabbage in small amounts and not too often. Carrots are fine, it's the carrot tops that need to be given in moderation. The largest part of their diet should consist of leafy greens -collards, mustard greens, turnip greens, etc. (no lettuce, except for the occasional treat). They should also have a good amount of other vegetables- green beans, carrots, peas, sprouts, etc. They should also have some (not too much) fruit in their daily diet- banana, apple, berries, etc. We use a food processor to finely chop the fruit and vegetables. The leafy greens we tear into bite-sized pieces.
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4) Heating/lighting and humidity. You must have a UVA/UVB light for an ig. This light needs to be on for 8 to 10 hours a day and you have to either remember to turn it on and off, or buy a timer. They need a CHE (Ceramic Heating Element) to provide heat for them during the day . They need a nocturnal heat lamp to provide heat for them at night without disturbing their sleep (which isn't a wise thing to do because it makes them crankier than they already are to begin with). A heat pad is usually also necessary in the winter. Because iggies are from tropical rainforrests, there is alot of moisture in the air. So you need a humidifier to create some moisture in the air.
This is really a pretty easy part of owning an iguana. Simply keep the iguanas lights on a timer, just adjust the timer according to the time of the year, but other than that you don't really have to worry about it. The humidity is easy too, just don't let it get too humid or that can get a fungus.
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5) Breeding season. During breeding season, you will have to deal with a gravid female laying unfertile eggs. This can make her either aggressive, or sweet, or completely unpredictable. Your suddenly sweet male will become totally aggressive and unhandlable. And you get to deal with this until breeding season is over (a few months later).
Breeding season takes place during the winter months- approximately October through February. During this time feeding often becomes a bit frustrating as males often eat very little during this time- it's totally normal though. Males often dcan become a bit agressive (though mine luckily never has). Our male is totally handleable during mating season, we've never had any problems with that at all. Sometimes a pretend mate (made out of a sock) is recommended for males, we've never had one though.