Anyone with Aquarium Pharm brand Testing Kits?

I had the original Master test kit from Aquarium Pharm which looks like this:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...g_ca/fresh.jpg

and tested for pH, high range pH, Ammonia, General Hardness (GH) and Carbonate Hardness (KH).

Due to a tragic accident (read: got really really wet), the manual was destroyed, and I lost the instructions. I figured fine, go buy a new set. So I went out to Big Al's, got a new Master Test kit, and low and behold, it tests for pH, high range pH, and ammonia, but now includes the test kits for Nitrates and Nitrites instead -- therefore, I have no instructions for GH and KH.

I scoured their site to no avail - there are no manuals posted on the web for these tests.

So does ANYONE have either the original test kit manuals, or the instructions specific to the GH and KH tests for this brand that they could scan or write up for me? I'd be forever grateful :D

The separate GH & KH test kit looks like this --
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...g_ca/gh_kh.jpg

I have it, but its at school and the dorms are locked out until Sunday. Unless you have really unstable water you don't need to test these two things at all. Ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are the only thing most people test for. Your test solutions might be expired too if its from an old kit, they don't have long shelf lives.

I don't know if this is what you are looking for or not.

Directions for Testing Carbonate Hardness (KH):

Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium.

To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand.

Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested.
Fill the test tube with 5 ml of aquarium water (to the line on the test tube).
Add Carbonate Hardness Test Solution, one drop at a time, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops. After first drop is added, solution will turn blue. If the water sample contains only 1°dKH, the solution will turn from clear to its yellow endpoint after the first drop is added.
Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. Keep count of the drops being added. Do not hold finger over open end of the tube, as this may affect the test results.
The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been shaken, turns from blue to yellow. If you have difficulty discerning the color after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap from the test tube and while holding it over a white background, look down through the tube.

The Carbonate Hardness value is determined by the number of drops of the reagent that must be added to turn the water in the test tube bright yellow. Each drop is equal to 1 °dKH or 17.9 ppm KH

Directions for Testing General Hardness (GH):

Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium.

To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand.

Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested.
Fill the test tube with 5 ml of aquarium water (to the line on the test tube).
Add General Hardness Test Solution, one drop at a time, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops. After first drop is added, solution will turn orange. If the water sample contains only 1°dGH, the solution will turn from clear to its green endpoint after the first drop is added.
Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. Keep count of the drops being added. Do not hold finger over open end ofthe tube, as this may affect the test results.
The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been shaken, turns from orange to green. If you have difficulty discerning the color after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap from the test tube and while holding it over a white background, look down through the tube.
The General Hardness value is determined by the number of drops of the reagent that must be added to turn the water in the test tube green. Each drop is equal to 1 °dGH or 17.9 ppm GH

GH & KH RANGE - Aquarium Life

0°-3° (0-50 ppm) discus, arowanas, elephantnose, neons, cardinals, live plants

3°-6° (50-100 ppm) Most tropical fish including angelfish, cichlids, tetras, botia, live plants

6°-11° (100-200 ppm) Most tropical fish including swordtails, guppies, mollies, goldfish

11°-22° (200-400 ppm) Rift lake cichlids, goldfish, brackish water fish

Reducing General Hardness

General Hardness can be lowered with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Water Softener Pillow. The ion exchange resin in the Water Softener Pillow lowers GH by removing calcium and magnesium ions. The Water Softener Pillow will not lower KH. Partial water changes with deionized water will gradually reduce GH to the desired level.

Increasing General Hardness

African cichlids and brackish water fish require hard water with a pH of 8.2. Commercially available African cichlid or marine salts will increase GH and KH levels.

Lowering Carbonate Hardness

ALowering KH is best accomplished by diluting the aquarium water with deionized water. Deionized water contains no KH or GH. Partial water changes will gradually reduce KH to the desirable level.

Increasing Carbonate Hardness

KH can be increased with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals PROPER pH™ buffers. PROPER pH 6.5, 7.0 and 7.5 are non-carbonate buffers that automatically adjust pH and increase KH. PROPER pH will raise or lower pH, stabilizing it at the pre-set pH level. PROPER pH 8.2 is a carbonate buffer suitable for marine and African cichlid aquariums.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kittycats_delight

I don't know if this is what you are looking for or not.

Perfect -- thanks tons! I'll print these off at work tomorrow. I have a well established tank that I'm not worried about, but I'm in the process of setting up a new 110 gal tank, and just wanted to do those tests during the setup/cycle process.

Quote:

Originally Posted by IRescue452

Your test solutions might be expired too if its from an old kit, they don't have long shelf lives.

Yeah, thats what I'm afraid of. I'm not super concerned about the GH KH tests - more about the ammonia and nitrates/nitrites, I just hate to waste the chems if i have them. I also wanted to test my moms water up at her farm (shes on a well) and compare it to Toronto water, just because :)