Training does'nt have to ruin your life.
I see al lot of questions re training so I thought I would post this here in the hope to help folks address issues before they develope rather than after.
I truely believe a well trained dog is a happy dog, thats said... someone sent me this a while back and it is a good starting point for any over excited pup.... and for owners gererally.
Laura’s Version of NILIF
Start your dog on the full NILIF (nothing in life is free) program for the next two weeks. After two weeks he may begin to have some freedoms re-established. The theory behind this program is that dogs must earn everything. This ranges from pats and scratches to going outside to getting food. The dog works for everything he desires. For dogs that are fearful and shy, this gives them structure to make them feel secure. For dogs that are pushy this gives them clear rules to live by.
Rules:
1. Dogs must be on leash at all times
Any time the dog is out of their crate they must be leashed. If you are taking them out to toilet, they go on leash. If they are hanging out in the living room with you, they are on leash. If you are moving around and doing things and the dog is not in their crate, attach their leash to you and have them accompany you around the house. If you aren’t able to hold onto the leash because what you’re doing is too complicated, then the dog can hang out in their crate with a chew toy until you are able to let them out again on leash.
2. Dogs must sit to make doors open
Everything from the crate door to the front door is controlled by the dog sitting. Stand at the door (crate door, house door, whatever…it doesn’t matter so long as it opens). Wait for the dog to offer a sit. As soon as they do give your release work and open the door. If the dog is very slow about sitting you can ask for a sit (once!) but that’s only during the first couple of days. Then you have to wait for it. As they get better at this you can teach them to wait for permission to go through the door. Once they’ve sat start to open the door, if the dog gets up close the door again and wait for a sit. Once they sit start to open the door, if they get up close it and wait again. Eventually you’ll be able to open the door the whole way while the dog waits. Give the dog the release word and proceed through the door. This will take some patience to teach, so if you aren’t able to work on it, wait for the sit, release the dog and then open the door.
3. No more bowls
Food no longer comes from a bowl. Dogs must work for their food. You can use the dog’s food as training rewards. Measure out their food for the day and use it to work on obedience things, or as rewards for being well behaved. If there is food leftover at the end of the day, you can have a training session to use it up or you can stuff a kong with it. Since you’re doing lots of training at this time, make sure you’ve got food on your person at all times, or easily accessible in every room.
4. Barking doesn’t work
If the dog is barking in their crate do not talk to them, go near the crate or in any way interact with the dog until you have had 1 minute of silence. Barking in the crate does not get you out or toys or anything. For all other barking that takes place outside of the crate, if the dog barks say “thank you” in a happy tone and put them in their crate for a 30 second time out. If they are quiet after 30 seconds they can come out. Essentially, barking is the dogs way of asking for a time out (gotta love this kinda psychology).
5. Head halters are a part of life
Any time the dog is not in their crate they should be wearing their head halter. This helps it become just another piece of “clothing” that the dog wears. They may be displeased with it for the first few days but they should quickly get over it if they are wearing it all the time. This will also give you more control in the house, should you require it.
6. Dogs stay on the floor
Until the dog has earned back the privilege he is not allowed on furniture (couches, beds, chairs, etc). This can be re-established as his overall behaviour improves. Once you’ve decided that you’re ready to reintroduce furniture privileges spend a week working on “on” and “off”. Teach him to wait for permission to get up on the furniture and practice asking him to get off the furniture. Reward all “off’s” with high value treats. He needs to know it’s worth his while to get off when asked. Once he’s good at “on” and “off” you can start to allow him use of the furniture with permission. If he gets on the furniture without permission tell him “too bad” and give him a 30 second time out in the crate. Then take away furniture privileges for a couple more days while you work on “on” and “off” some more.
7. People initiate interactions
If the dog wants attention, to play or anything else, he must ask politely for it. To ask politely he must sit first. If he comes up and nudges you or shoves a toy at you ignore it. When he stops and gives up, ask for a sit and then give him what he wanted (attention or play time). He should start to figure out that coming a sitting by you is what works. When he does that, make sure you pay attention to him!
8. There’s no free lunch
Just like you work to earn the money to buy the kibble, your dog must work to earn their kibble. If you are in doubt about whether the dog has to do something to get something the answer is always “yes”! Dog wants to go in the car, they have to sit first. Dog wants to have a cookie, they have to sit first. Dog wants anything, they have to sit first. Make sure your dog is working for the things that he wants.
Some things to keep in mind:
The NILIF system is not about dominating the dog. It is about teaching the dog there are rules in the house and only those who follow the rules get privileges. It is about teaching the dog that there is structure to life. Dogs do best with structure and this program provides a nice framework that can be adapted by any family. There are no punishers in the NILIF system. The worst thing that happens is a “too bad” and a time out in the crate
