Walking On A Leash UPDATED PICTURES

[timlewis]

What is the best way to train a dog to walk on a leash? I took Daisy for a walk today and it was a constant fight, I dont know all that much about them anyway. Should you keep your dog to your side or let him go ahead of u? The reason i ask is because i think i saw one time that if your dog walks in front of u they will think they are in charge is this true or does it really matter?

[borzoimom]

Well- it depends. I do not have a dominant dogs. However my rule is they may walk ahead but if the pull, I turn quickly and reverse direction. They learn quickly we will continue but not to pull ..

[Canis-Lupess]

A dog that goes in front can learn to pull and then they think they have to pull all the time just to keep you moving.
It's better to teach the dog that you move forward when they walk at your side but that you stop if they try to pull.
Knowing to walk at heel is also useful for when you approach roadsides and such. You don't want a dog that tries to pull into the road etc....

Did your dog have any prior experience of the lead before you took her out. Is it her first time with a lead? Try practising with it at home. When you feed her, have somebody put the food dish down and then, with the lead on her, allow her to walk to the dish to get her food etc...also practise in the garden.
She'll get used to it if you keep practising with her. Don't tell her off or make a scene out of it if she does start dancing about and struggling. Just ignore the behaviour and carry on walking and she'll get tired of it. Our Mist was a bugger for that when I first started her with a lead but she realised it was a waste of time and she was ok walking by the time she was allowed to go out for a walk after her vaccinations.
I'd just keep walking around the garden with her on the lead.

Try playing a game with her whilst she has her lead on, one that requires her stay close to you obviously....she'll soon learn that having the lead on isn 't all that bad. Try to keep the lead slack as much as possible, especially at first. Tugging too much yourself won't help but they'll probably cause tugging when they try to struggle but when they stop, so does the tugging.
Be sure to only have a broad leather collar or harness on her, nothing that will cause pain such a choke chains and certainly not something as barbaric as a prong collar or anything like that. You don't want her to experience pain when she pulls towards something like another dog etc...this can teach dogs to hate other dogs because they blame the pain on them.....

Anyway, just a few pointers, hope these help.

[SunsetRose]

Pulling on a leash is typically not a dominant behavior. Walking on a leash is not normal to a dog, if you do not teach them and show them what you expect them to do, they will do what comes naturally and that means to pull and try to go whatever way they can. Some dogs do naturally heel and walk next to you, others you actually have to teach.

But luckily, teaching heel is actually pretty simple. You don't even need a leash to begin with. Just call your dog to you and lure her into the heel position with a piece of food while saying heel. When she gets there, give her the treat. Then walk 2 or 3 steps while saying heel. Sometimes it helps to put the treat up near your face at your chest so she's focused on you and looking up at you. I also find it helpful to keep the treat in a balled fist, this makes it easier to fade the treat. Then give her the treat after those few steps. Now snap the leash on and do the same thing without holding onto the leash; let it drag first. This is so you can eliminate any previous experiences with the leash like pulling. Many times, you can teach heel and the dog is great at it, but if you just snap the leash on and go out, it won't work and it'll seem like the dog was never trained in the first place. Once you can snap the leash on and she doesn't get overly excited, then pick it up and again do the heel exercise. By this time, you should only be giving treats periodically and the primary reward for the dog should be praise.

When you first go outside again, it may be helpful to take treats with you so she stays focused on you and obeys as there are along of distractions out there. It also helps to keep talking to the dog in baby talk, telling her she's a good girl, making kiss noises as you walk, so she stays focused on you. Eventually it'll become habit to walk nicely at your side.

If she starts to pull, the best thing is just to stop, don't say a word. She'll probably look back at you, puzzled as to why your not moving. Have her heel and then keep going and don't forget to praise her.

Your probably reading this thinking it's a long hard thing to teach, but really it's not. A relatively intelligent dog will often pick up on it in one training session. Some dogs you will have to work with for a few days, but it's really not all that difficult to teach. Just be consistent and be patient.

I allow my dogs to walk ahead of me as long as the leash is slacked.

[borzoimom]

All my dogs will walk along on a loose lead- because if they pull, I do an abrupt turn . With dogs higher in the waist to chest in height- This is taught and backed up every time. Consistancy is required. One day it took me 30 minutes longer to get home to make the point. My dogs NEVER pull.

[mike001]

If you take training classes you will be taught that your dog should always walk on your left....except for special circumstances.

[lizbud]

Sounds like you want to just get Daisy used to walking with a leash.
Just normal walking is easily taught, but folks usually start at a very early
stage in development. Some pups don't like it at first, but with patience,
eventually catch on. There is also a walking "at heel" method that is a bit more stuctured & precise. You could probably "google" dog leash walking,
and get a ton of methods that teach the same basic thing.

[agilityk9trainer]

If you take training classes you will be taught that your dog should always walk on your left....except for special circumstances.

Not true. Most housedog obedince classes today don't teach this formal "heel." A "heel" is where you teach your dog to walk at your left side. Most classes these days teach your dog to walk on a loose leash near you. Whether that's on your right or left is up to you. It doesn't matter if the dog is a bit in front or behind. You don't even have to give a command to demand this behavior. As long as the dog isn't pulling, it's doing it's job.

"Heeling" isn't really helpful or fun for the dog on casual walks. I never make my dogs :"heel" on walks. They're allowed to roam on the leash, as long as it's loose. If I need more control - say walking through a crowd - then I ask for a "heel" where my dog is directly at my left leg. If I stop, my dog stops to sit. They don't go in front or in back. It's a very forma command, and I only use it on walks when there's a real need for it.

Otherwise, my dogs are allowed to walk freely, as long as they don't pull.

One story. I was at Petsmart with my American Eskimo, Laika. It was a very busy day, and we were walking through the store with Laika on a loose leash. As I appoached the front of the store, I was going to have to walk her through a very crowed area of people and dogs. I asked her to "set up" on my left and told her to "heel." We walked easily through the crowd with her obeying my command. She walked close to me right at my left leg. After we passed the crowd, I released her from her heel, praised her, and let her get back to just loose leash walking.

Later in the store a lady ran me down. She said she had never seen anything like that before, and the my dog was the best trained dog she had ever seen (OK, she must not have much experience with dogs!). Anyway, it demonstrates the difference between a heel and loose leash walking.

[GraceByDesign]

Dottie was a MAJOR puller on the leash, yanking me spastically down the sidewalk with her for about 1.5 miles each day. My arms were very sore after 2 days of her dragging me around.

I found the following advice by Cesar Millan, the Dog Whisperer, to be indespensible...

Place the collar or loop directly behind the dogs head, not down on her neck. It will probably sit just behind her ears. Think of dog shows, where the loop of the lead is placed up close to the head. (info found in the book Cesar's Way) (ETA: not a direct quote)

I placed her collar as advised, and kept a short firm lead (not tight, but not slack - again, like a show dog). She held herself much more proudly and just fell into place and trotted along side me. No pulling at all. No choking either. It was amazing!! I chose the right side, as I am right handed, and know nothing about right or left for 'heel'. That was all I did. I did not say anything to her, nor did I give her treats. I praise her occasionally. And walks became enjoyable, instead of struggles of will. We also practice sitting at intersections and at other times on our walks. I praise her for good sitting.

Our walks are for exercise. After the first 2 days of her pulling and sniffing every blade of grass, I realized she never pottied while on our walks anyway. So I take her out to potty first, then we go for exercise. For potty purposes in our yard, I let her sniff about on a loose lead. She (almost) never pulls when she is smelling out a place to 'go'.

HTH

[agilityk9trainer]

I placed her collar as advised, and kept a short firm lead (not tight, but not slack - again, like a show dog). She held herself much more proudly and just fell into place and trotted along side me. No pulling at all. No choking either. It was amazing!! I chose the right side, as I am right handed, and know nothing about right or left for 'heel'. That was all I did. I did not say anything to her, nor did I give her treats. I praise her occasionally. And walks became enjoyable, instead of struggles of will. We also practice sitting at intersections and at other times on our walks. I praise her for good sitting.

Our walks are for exercise. After the first 2 days of her pulling and sniffing every blade of grass, I realized she never pottied while on our walks anyway. So I take her out to potty first, then we go for exercise. For potty purposes in our yard, I let her sniff about on a loose lead. She (almost) never pulls when she is smelling out a place to 'go'.

HTH

I find this sad. No offense to GraceByDesign (and I love the name), but the whole idea of a walk with the dog is to give the dog pleasure. Dogs love to sniff. We will never understand the enjoyment they get from their noses. By forcing a dog to walk with the head up, you're taking away the dogs, well, dogginess. You can still let the dog be a dog without making it walk head up at a brisk pace. There are better methods.

I'm not a fan of Cesar in part because his methods remove the "doggieness" of being a dog. This is an instance. You can train a dog to walk on a loose leash without taking away their fun. They can still sniff, they can still enjoy themselves. They can still be dogs...not robots that walk at our side.

My dogs are highly trained, but they're DOGS. I allow them to sniff grass when not on cue. As long as they don't pull me, they're good to go. They can be themselves. I am known for my dogs' trained abilities. i am also known for my dogs' personalities. Their personalities just shine in the show ring because they LOVE to work for me. Because they get REWARDED for working for me. And, I never put them on a tight lead or ask them to be robot dogs.

Sorry. You did hit a bit of a hot botton with me. As a professor from the vet. school at Tufts said, Cesar has put dog training back 20 years. See, we used to use those methods 20 years ago. I've used them. Others have, too. It's old school, and we've moved beyond them. Yes. They work. No. They're not the best for your dog. The bond I have with my dogs using the treat method is 100 percent stronger than when I used the methods Cesar is now claiming to be his.

I will never use those old, tired methods again. I want my dogs to work for me because it's fun. Not because my leash is so tight they have no other option. And, not because I'll collar pop, finger poke or any other punishment. My dogs work because it's fun, and because they love it. Period. And their personalities shine. And, my bond with them is stornger than anything I've experienced before.

[SunsetRose]

I completely agree.

I disagree with Cesar's methods. There are much better ways to train and treat a dog.

I have seen the way he walks dogs and the position he has the leash at, that is very uncomfortable for a dog for the leash to be that high and constantly held taught so he has no other choice but to keep it up and look ahead. You may as well have a puppet on strings.

If I want my dog's nose to be off the ground, there is a very simple command I taught called "watch me". I can say that command and my dog will be looking lovingly up at my face.

I too used to be a fan of Cesar. Although I never had to use his methods on my own dogs (because they were trained properly to begin with), I thought he was an amazing dog trainer. Truth is, he isn't a trainer. Looking back on it, I cannot understand how I could have held him so high in my mind when he had to hire a professional dog trainer to teach a dog the simple command of sit.

[borzoimom]

Sniffing to a dog is like reading the newspaper - what came through- what wasa it- how long ago etc. the ability to sniff around also I believe is a form of stimulation. If I am show conditioning, I take the one and just walk but its on a show lead. So far- each knows the difference - flexi whatever just do not pull, show lead- just walk. ( quickly.. argh- such long legs they have.. lol )

Now my breed naturally walks as a pack- they were bred that way. Its funny to see all 4 walk along- literally stride for stride. I didn't teach them that- its a natural behavior. Occasionally one of them will think they see something, but with the prior training of abrupt turns in the opposite direction- now they just stop and stare. lol. In my breed- I watch the ears- if the ears go up, something is spotted ( like a deer etc). I usually say " okay- lets go home now.." and slowly turn to back home.

As far As Cesar Milan- there are some good points and some bad. The flooding method- I have seen that backfire as much as it works- and I never push a dog that hard with a fear. However- his work with aggressive dogs, that lacked clear instructions- some of the shows are pretty good. Its sad it was lacking all that time before. My dogs understand the order from day one who is who in the pack order. I feed, give treats, and even allow the dogs out the door in a certain order. Its always Hottie, Femka, Zubin, and Galina. And- If Zubin isnt careful and comes flying around the corner into " Hotties space- " and Hottie reacts- we back up Hottie by scolding Zubin. Zubin learns to be more careful around " the boss dog". Also his point on calm and assertive- I have noticed over the years the worry and fear in the owners, causes more problems. This works too.
I use to be really negative about Cesar. Some of his points work- some can NOT be done with every breed type. And the use of a high placed collar, or a prong collar- I have never had to use them, then again- I had clear instruction from the start too..

[lizbud]

Place the collar or loop directly behind the dogs head, not down on her neck. It will probably sit just behind her ears. Think of dog shows, where the loop of the lead is placed up close to the head. (info found in the book Cesar's Way) (ETA: not a direct quote)

I placed her collar as advised, and kept a short firm lead (not tight, but not slack - again, like a show dog). She held herself much more proudly and just fell into place and trotted along side me. No pulling at all. No choking either. It was amazing!! I chose the right side, as I am right handed, and know nothing about right or left for 'heel'. That was all I did. I did not say anything to her, nor did I give her treats. I praise her occasionally. And walks became enjoyable, instead of struggles of will. We also practice sitting at intersections and at other times on our walks. I praise her for good sitting.

HTH


I have to agree, because I think the first thing you need to get across
to a full grown Boxer, is that you control the dog's movements and not the
other way around. Your first aim(with a strong breed) is to gain control on
the walk. Once a dog understands you are the "director", the leash can be
loosened for a more casual style of walking.

[gwen]

Buy a gentle leader they are brilliant!!

[agilityk9trainer]

Buy a gentle leader they are brilliant!!

I agree. Trained proerly, they are a powerful tool for the average dog owner.

[Canis-Lupess]

The Gentle leader was invented by UK pet behaviourist Peter Neville was it not?

The Late John Fisher also devised a similar one that he called a col-leash but I don't know where you can get those now he has passed on.
I know the col-leash was adjustable to grow with the dog so you could use it on them as a puppy and just adjust it as they grew so no buying seperate collars and leads for different stages of growth.

Both are designed to prevent the dog from learning to pull partly my making it so that there is nothing to pull against.

[GraceByDesign]

... the first thing you need to get across
to a full grown Boxer, is that you control the dog's movements and not the
other way around. Your first aim(with a strong breed) is to gain control on
the walk. Once a dog understands you are the "director", the leash can be
loosened for a more casual style of walking.

Yes, this was what I was trying to say! We have only had Dot (16 month boxer/bulldog/hound/?? mix, 50#) for a week, so I have limited experience. It is not my plan for her to have to walk head up all the time. I needed to get some control, and then we could gradually train her to a slack lead.

It was not enjoyable for either of us, when I was being yanked along and she was gagging and choking the whole way. Also with the high collar, she holds her head up. I do not force it up. The short lead is firm so I will maintain control if she tries to start pulling again.

I was just trying to offer a suggestion to the OP that had worked for us, not start a debate on the merits of Cesar's way.

Best of luck!

[mike001]

Buy a gentle leader they are brilliant!!


I agree, they are easy on the handler, your dog learns to walk on your left without pulling and once he realizes you are in control you can dispense with it, unless needed for absolute control. They aren't used to train in classes in this area, but lots of people use them to keep the dog under control. When we go out for excercise we are fortunate to have trails and bush a few hundred ft. away and we turn the dogs loose to run free and do all the sniffing they want.

[NicoleLJ]

The Gentle leader was invented by UK pet behaviourist Peter Neville was it not?

Both are designed to prevent the dog from learning to pull partly my making it so that there is nothing to pull against.

I use a halti with Sheena. And many Service dog facilites and trainers use haltis to train the dogs and also for the dogs to wear and use when working. They are great for teaching the dogs to not sniff things, lick people and the like. Sheena wears one when working because just like her vest it is a signal that she is working when it is put on and she is to not be distracted at all. She is also trained to walk perfectly on a collar as well but we have trained her that when she is on leash with the collar she has a little more freedom to sniff things and greet people. So for her depending on which she is wearing tells her what is acceptable behaviour or not. I would defiantely suggest the halti or gentle leader as a training aid.

As for who ever said the dogs will be trained to walk on the left in a training class, this is not mandatory at all. Which ever side is more comfortable for you is the side you walk your dog on and train your dog on. The only time it is a must is most likely in competitions for obedience. Otherwise it is what ever side works for you. Many Service dogs are trained to walk at heel on either side. Both Sheena and Luca are trained to walk at heel on either side depending on which side I direct them too.
Nicole

[mike001]

What is the best way to train a dog to walk on a leash? I took Daisy for a walk today and it was a constant fight, I dont know all that much about them anyway. Should you keep your dog to your side or let him go ahead of u? The reason i ask is because i think i saw one time that if your dog walks in front of u they will think they are in charge is this true or does it really matter?


I forgot to mention that if you are training your dog to enter a formal cd class by akc or ckc your dog has to be trained to walk on your left side , unless in special circumstances. If not training for anything specific, the choice is yours, although out here we still train by the ckc in formal classes....dogs at heel on left side.

[SunsetRose]

Yes, this was what I was trying to say! We have only had Dot (16 month boxer/bulldog/hound/?? mix, 50#) for a week, so I have limited experience. It is not my plan for her to have to walk head up all the time. I needed to get some control, and then we could gradually train her to a slack lead.

It was not enjoyable for either of us, when I was being yanked along and she was gagging and choking the whole way. Also with the high collar, she holds her head up. I do not force it up. The short lead is firm so I will maintain control if she tries to start pulling again.

I was just trying to offer a suggestion to the OP that had worked for us, not start a debate on the merits of Cesar's way.

Best of luck!

You forcing a dog to submit to your control is one thing. You training the dog to be willing to submit to your control and enjoy doing it is another. The point isn't about Cesar Millan, but rather about the downsides and cruelness of the old school methods he uses. She holds her head up by herself because of the pressure you are putting on certain places on her neck, so in turn, your still basically forcing it. If you can have the leash literally dragging on the ground it's so slack and she still has her head up like that, then I'll believe she's doing it on her own and you have nothing to do with it.

[lizbud]

You forcing a dog to submit to your control is one thing. You training the dog to be willing to submit to your control and enjoy doing it is another.


No, they are no different. Having a collar properly secured on the dog
is not about "using force". It puts no undue pressure on the dog at all. It's
perfectly normal, but it does prevent the dog from disengaging from it's
focus on the walker. The dog does not have to be checking out every smell he comes across to be having a good time.After the "ground rules" have been
set & your dog knows what you want, you can relax the rules a bit if you
want.

[borzoimom]

Be carefull in corrections with a gentle leader- they can snap the neck. It comes with instructions- USE THEM..

[NicoleLJ]

Be carefull in corrections with a gentle leader- they can snap the neck. It comes with instructions- USE THEM..

Any training aid if used incorrectly can cause damage to a dog. That is why people should always learn how to use a training aid before using it.
Nicole

[borzoimom]

Any training aid if used incorrectly can cause damage to a dog. That is why people should always learn how to use a training aid before using it.
Nicole
Yea- I know that- and you know that. But my statement encourages someone to read the directions etc.

[agilityk9trainer]

No, they are no different. Having a collar properly secured on the dog
is not about "using force". It puts no undue pressure on the dog at all. It's
perfectly normal, but it does prevent the dog from disengaging from it's
focus on the walker. The dog does not have to be checking out every smell he comes across to be having a good time.After the "ground rules" have been
set & your dog knows what you want, you can relax the rules a bit if you
want.

I have never seen a dog successfully trained to true loose leash walking using this method. You still have to resort to putting the collar high and holding the leash taut.

You know you've truly got loose leash walking trained when you can have both your arms full of gear and hold two leashes attached to two dogs and walk into a crowd of people and dogs and not have your dogs pulling you. This is true loose leash walking. If you have to have control over the lead/collar to accomplish loose leash walking, that's not what you've got. You've got a dog who is relying in the leash to keep it from pulling.

With my shelties, I don't even really have to hold the leash. It's in my hands for safety, but they just don't pull. Not even an ounce. I didn't use Cesar's methods. I used treat based clicker training. Works wonders if done correctly with good timing. Took me five minutes for each dog. Your milage may vary, but it's the better method for the long haul. It's a true trained loose leash, not a dog controlled by the leash/collar.

BTW, I like to sit back and watch the green newbies come into the dog training world of performance events and mention something Cesar has said. All the experienced trainers will roll their eyes, take a deep breath, count to ten and then begin to explain why that's a bad idea. It's always fun to watch. :)

[SunsetRose]

Exactly. As I said before, a dog holding it's head up during a walk is not natural at all and it will not continue to do it when you slack the lead. That nose will go streight to the ground. The key is training the dog to have self control on walks. The dog can sniff the ground, but must also keep up. So a properly trained dog will not be totally consumed with a scent on the sidewalk. Dogs are not visual creatures, they are creatures of scent. A dog that is allowed to smell will be enjoying the walk much more than a dog who has no other choice but to look ahead.


Be carefull in corrections with a gentle leader- they can snap the neck. It comes with instructions- USE THEM..

If I remember correctly, your not supposed to snap the leash at all with the head halti. The way it works is basically prevents the dog from moving forward and if it tries to lunge or pull, it ends up turned around and facing you. I'm trying to look it up, but apparantly the gentle leader homepage is down.

[timlewis]

Thanks for all the tips, i think. All i really want is to be able to walk my dog without her running up and then back and wrapping her leash around me. Im not saying it wont work but im not going to choke my dog into walking before i do that she can just run allover me. As far as having a loose lead, a tight lead or a whatever lead i have a nylon leash so what kind would that be oh yeah and its Red and 5 foot long if that helps, ha ha. But really i have no idea what ur talking about a soft or loose lead or whatever. i havent been on PT in a long time but i dont think u all understand that im not a big animal person. Dont get me wrong i love Daisy but, i dont think i look at her as most of you all do your animals, no offense intended. I live in a small town in Kentucky, almost at the end of a holler, im not out in some big city or anything like that. The only woman i ever knew who put clothes on her animals was an old high school teacher i had and everyone thought she was crazy. All i really need to know is it important to teach them to walk beside you?

[borzoimom]

..
If I remember correctly, your not supposed to snap the leash at all with the head halti. The way it works is basically prevents the dog from moving forward and if it tries to lunge or pull, it ends up turned around and facing you. I'm trying to look it up, but apparantly the gentle leader homepage is down.
Yes- that is the potential problem. Just like a misused prong collar and damage the tracea..
Also- even with a nylong choke collar, the glands around the neck can be bruised if used incorrecly.
I use the reverse method- even it means like to me we are getting nowhere at first- or it takes a long time to go anyway- they learn pretty quick, with instant praise on the follow about turn.. Some dogs learn this real quick- others do not. However- being consistant works. That means every walk needs the commitment- if the dog pulls you reverse your direction.

[lizbud]

Thanks for all the tips, i think. All i really want is to be able to walk my dog without her running up and then back and wrapping her leash around me. Im not saying it wont work but im not going to choke my dog into walking before i do that she can just run allover me. As far as having a loose lead, a tight lead or a whatever lead i have a nylon leash so what kind would that be oh yeah and its Red and 5 foot long if that helps, ha ha. But really i have no idea what ur talking about a soft or loose lead or whatever. i havent been on PT in a long time but i dont think u all understand that im not a big animal person. Dont get me wrong i love Daisy but, i dont think i look at her as most of you all do your animals, no offense intended. I live in a small town in Kentucky, almost at the end of a holler, im not out in some big city or anything like that. The only woman i ever knew who put clothes on her animals was an old high school teacher i had and everyone thought she was crazy. All i really need to know is it important to teach them to walk beside you?


I remember you Tim and I remember your dog Daisy. :) It's been awhile
hasn't it? Remember all the comotion on PT when you mentioned having
her ears cropped? I do understand you simply want to know an easy method
to teach your dog how to walk without pulling you.

Check out these directions: http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/nopulling.html


Practice, practice, practice. You'll love when it's so much more fun to
walk without the fight.

[gwen]

Thanks for all the tips, i think. All i really want is to be able to walk my dog without her running up and then back and wrapping her leash around me. Im not saying it wont work but im not going to choke my dog into walking before i do that she can just run allover me. As far as having a loose lead, a tight lead or a whatever lead i have a nylon leash so what kind would that be oh yeah and its Red and 5 foot long if that helps, ha ha. But really i have no idea what ur talking about a soft or loose lead or whatever. i havent been on PT in a long time but i dont think u all understand that im not a big animal person. Dont get me wrong i love Daisy but, i dont think i look at her as most of you all do your animals, no offense intended. I live in a small town in Kentucky, almost at the end of a holler, im not out in some big city or anything like that. The only woman i ever knew who put clothes on her animals was an old high school teacher i had and everyone thought she was crazy. All i really need to know is it important to teach them to walk beside you?



I am new to the dog world too, I have only had my dog for a few months, I asked this question too and I was advised to buy a gentle leader it only cost £9.00 dont know what that is in dollars but it changed everything for me, I have a GSD so he is very strong, but now I am in control if I want to let him wander ahead I can and I can also get him to heel too without any effort he learnt very quickly and now we are both happy.

[agilityk9trainer]

I am new to the dog world too, I have only had my dog for a few months, I asked this question too and I was advised to buy a gentle leader it only cost £9.00 dont know what that is in dollars but it changed everything for me, I have a GSD so he is very strong, but now I am in control if I want to let him wander ahead I can and I can also get him to heel too without any effort he learnt very quickly and now we are both happy.

Good job, Gwen!! :)

[mike001]

I agree that the gentle leader is the greatest tool for instant control. What I really love about it is that I see weaker individuals with big strong dogs pulling them around and really hurting their arms. When they change to a gentle Leader, they have total control and no sore arms. The nice thing is that when the dog is fully trained and knows what is expected, you dispense of it and your dog will walk on a flat collar and loose lead. I've seen some owners keep them on their dogs for aggression issues, but then that would be another category. I mostly see this at Pet Smart, where owners want to bring their dogs, but can't control the aggression. This way they get to bring the dog and everyone is happy.

[lizbud]

I am new to the dog world too, I have only had my dog for a few months, I asked this question too and I was advised to buy a gentle leader it only cost £9.00 dont know what that is in dollars but it changed everything for me, I have a GSD so he is very strong, but now I am in control if I want to let him wander ahead I can and I can also get him to heel too without any effort he learnt very quickly and now we are both happy.


Congrats on having the GSD experience. My RB Buddy was Shep/Huskie
mix and a delight to live with. :) I accomplished the same training for Buddy
but, used a different method. I am so glad it worked. :)

[jenniffercalder]

I read the book by John Fisher entitled 'Why Does My Dog?" This was a great book to read, however the Col-leash can be purchased from Think Dog Products, Crow Hall Farm, Northfield Road, Soham, Nr Ely, Cambs (Tel 01353 720431; Fax 01353 624202). Hope this is of some help. :)

[timlewis]

Exactly what is a gentle leader im not sure, i dont have a big pet store within a hour and a half of me. And it has been a long time since i have visited PT, here are some pix of Daisy now she is 8 months old now. We got just got back from our walk a little while ago and i took these when we got back.http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n81/timlewis/100_0560.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n81/timlewis/100_0543.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n81/timlewis/100_0536.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n81/timlewis/100_0539.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n81/timlewis/100_0544.jpg

and a puppy shot
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n81/timlewis/100_2519-1.jpg

[NicoleLJ]

Think of a head halter for a horse. Similar thing. Here is a picture of Sheena wearing one while working at a carnival:

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/NicoleLJ_2003/5F55F45E-EF16-FB93-E6B2C063681E5135.jpg

And this one is when we were in a business
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/NicoleLJ_2003/tmpphpxGdIzq.jpg

I don't hold the leash. Instead it is attached to my waist and then attached to her. So I have both hands free to take care of the kids and check things out. Makes things very handy using a belt leash.
Nicole

[lizbud]

Wow Tim, she's grown so much. Daisy is a beautiful Boxer. :) You can
buy in person, or online I guess. Any pet store should have them. I never
used them, but they work for some people. Best of luck with the walk.

[agilityk9trainer]

Tim,

With her you will want a Gentle Leader (GL) vs. a Haltie. I actually prefer the Haltie, but it's only for dogs who have regular sized snouts. She'll do best with a Gentle Leader that can be sized to fit her snout.

I would expect most pet stores - even small ones - should have a GL or be able to order you a GL. the advantage of a large store like a Petsmart or a Petco is you can get help from a trainer in sizing the GL (assuming the trainer at that store is a decent trainer, which isn't always the case). I'm sure you can get a GL on the internet pretty easily as well.

You'll want to read the instructions and watch the video. The dog has to be trained to the GL properly. It's a great tool when trained correctly.

[mike001]

Some of our vets used to carry them. I'm wondering if you could ask your vet about it, they might carry them or know where you can get one. Plus, the vet likes to adjust them on the dog so it's on properly. Lots of people don't realize exactly how to adjust it and the dog ends up chafed.

[Bonny]

I use a collar on my dogs when I work with them. I either take them into our basement or in our own yard. Lets Go is a command I use to ask my dog to move out. I keep them on my left side controllling them with the dog leash. When the dog starts tugging I use a quick but not hurtful tug. I allow the dog to move ahead after the first tug if he/she keeps tugging I use a quick but not hurtful tug to give the dog the hint I am in command. It may take lots of what I call corrections but they do catch on. You have to be consistant & I usually work with them about 15 minutes a day to start with. The idea is to teach the dog to not tug & walk along at your command. Praise your dog when he/she does what you want.

[SunsetRose]

She's a beautiful dog!

I don't blame you for not wanting to choke her or use methods like that....There's no need for them anyway and I don't understand why people would want to cause pain to their dog when there are ways of doing it with treats and praise and love.

I was just reading a book last night and it mentioned a new type of harness that is becoming popular. Unlike most harnesses in which you snap the leash on the back, this new design allows you to snap it on in front at the dogs chest. It uses a similar concept to a GL or halti it seems, making it more difficult for the dog to pull and causing the dog to turn around towards you if it does lunge or pull.

Maybe somebody here who has used one before can share their experience using it.

[borzoimom]

Here is another type. http://www.poodle-oo.com/shopping/prod/29979397.htm Its a anti pull harness. This is one that has been around for a while. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=14142&N=2001+114007

[sprokett]

the best way to get a dog under control on leash is to
get its head in your own control without the control of
his own head the dog cant lead himself it has to be lead
but i think the best thing to do is to by a gentle leader ,
head harness etc.

[lv4dogs]

She's grown into a beautiful young lady. I like how her ears turned out, not exactly boxer like but still beautiful.

NicoleLJ, I LOVE your Sheena, she's absolutely beautiful!

[whalelover]

She's a beautiful dog!

I don't blame you for not wanting to choke her or use methods like that....There's no need for them anyway and I don't understand why people would want to cause pain to their dog when there are ways of doing it with treats and praise and love.

I was just reading a book last night and it mentioned a new type of harness that is becoming popular. Unlike most harnesses in which you snap the leash on the back, this new design allows you to snap it on in front at the dogs chest. It uses a similar concept to a GL or halti it seems, making it more difficult for the dog to pull and causing the dog to turn around towards you if it does lunge or pull.

Maybe somebody here who has used one before can share their experience using it.

Cesar's way is the only way (IMO)

Before I knew about Cesar, I was using the methods all of you seem to use. Dog walks in front, even though not pulling. He's had a few problems, and I've tried fixing them with "treats and praise and love". Didn't work in the slightest. Nor did I have the patience to use these things, and when I did, nothing changed.
Anyway, I did end up getting a GL harness, it's called "Easy Walk". Doesn't work. For me, gentle leader and putting the choke chain at the top of the neck works very well. And yes, they can put their head down when it is at the top of the neck, because there is slack on the leash. This method is acheived by using slack on the leash because if there was none, this just gives the dog more power. This way it is easier to throw the dog "off balance" and snap him out of it when he is misbehaving. When a dog is walking in front, even if it is not pulling, this allows for other problems (agressions, anxiety, etc.) to develop. Like it or not, when a dog is in front you, it IS the pack leader. It is perfectly natural for them to be at your side, because a walk is a mental and physical exercise, the mental part being the dog focusing completely on you. Dogs do this naturally, because when following the pack leader and travel together, as this is how they form bonds. You never see them running in front of them, sniffing off on their own, because that would make THEM the pack leader, because they're running their own parade! (think of sled dogs).


cianara

[agilityk9trainer]

Cesar's way is the only way (IMO)

Before I knew about Cesar, I was using the methods all of you seem to use. Dog walks in front, even though not pulling. He's had a few problems, and I've tried fixing them with "treats and praise and love". Didn't work in the slightest. Nor did I have the patience to use these things, and when I did, nothing changed.
Anyway, I did end up getting a GL harness, it's called "Easy Walk". Doesn't work. For me, gentle leader and putting the choke chain at the top of the neck works very well. And yes, they can put their head down when it is at the top of the neck, because there is slack on the leash. This method is acheived by using slack on the leash because if there was none, this just gives the dog more power. This way it is easier to throw the dog "off balance" and snap him out of it when he is misbehaving. When a dog is walking in front, even if it is not pulling, this allows for other problems (agressions, anxiety, etc.) to develop. Like it or not, when a dog is in front you, it IS the pack leader. It is perfectly natural for them to be at your side, because a walk is a mental and physical exercise, the mental part being the dog focusing completely on you. Dogs do this naturally, because when following the pack leader and travel together, as this is how they form bonds. You never see them running in front of them, sniffing off on their own, because that would make THEM the pack leader, because they're running their own parade! (think of sled dogs).


cianara

How interesting!! ;) I guess when my dog runs ahead of me to do an obstacle in agility, I'm letting it know it's the pack leader!! :eek: Guess I don't know what I'm doing with my Agility Champion dog!!

Letting your dog go ahead of you when walking certainly does not mean it's in control. If you're still in control of where to go, then it doesn't matter where your dog is. I find some of this "pack leader" stuff quite silly. This would be one. Yes, if your dog is pulling you around, then it is in control. No, if your dog walks in front of you but still responds to your movements to turn and go a different direction, then YOU'RE in control.

Secondly, you bet the treats didn't work for you. You even admited why. You lack patience. You want a quick fix when a well-trained dog takes time and patience to develop. Sure, a collar pop will get your dog to behave. No one said it wouldn't. But, what collar pops do is damage the relationship between you and your dog. How do I know? As I've posted many times before (so those of you who have read this can skip to the end), I used to train that way. The bond I have with my dogs trained with treats and praise is SO MUCH BETTER than the bond I had with the dogs trained using the force training methods you are mentioning. It's why people are abandoning those "old school" methods (like the one's Cesar uses) for the new positve methods. The results are better, AND the bond is incredible. I know you'll say, "But you don't know, I've got a great bond with my dog." Yes, that's what I thought using those old methods, too. However, I know better now.

The difference is I've successfully used your method AND mine. The new positive methods are heads and tails better than the old pop and jerk methods. Poor Cesar is living in the stone age of dog training...

BTW, did you clicker train? You said you lack patience. This is why the fun treat method didn't work for you.

[whalelover]

Cesar's way is the only way (IMO)

slightest. Nor did I have the patience to use these things, and when I did, nothing changed.



I guess you could technically still think you're in control, but in a dog's mind, if it's the one in front, they think that they're leading, cause they are. Even if you pull to go somewhere else, if it turns and goes in front of you again, same problem.

The methods you use seem to be dog training. Cesar's methods are dog psychology. Dog training is essentially applying human psychology on a dog (positive reinforcement) in order to get it to do what you want (tricks). Dog psychology is just that. His methods aren't outdated, they're just different than dog training, as he ISN'T and never claims to be a dog trainer. If using dog psychology on a dog is outdated and using human psychology on a dog is the new "better way to do things", something doesn't seem right with that picture.
Dog training sessions generally are meant to be full of fun and excitement. It's meant to get the dog into a hyper state so that they will be more willing to do what you ask. Lots of people think that their dog is much happier doing this, but lots of times the truth is, he is just excited. And sure, feeding it treats all the time will of course get you a better bond with your dog. You're bribing it.

If I wanted a dog that was an agility champion, of course I would use your training methods. I'm talking about fixing a dog's problems that are psychological.

Yes, I have whistle trained, which is the same as clicker training pretty much. It may work to get dogs to do different behaviors/tricks, but it doesn't work as far as fulfilling a dog's needs go. I have never seen Cesar be overly harsh on a dog. "Physical correction in dog training language can range anywhere between a quick jerk on a training collar to an alpha dog roll.
Beating the sh*t out of a dog is NOT any part of physical correction, nor is it ever recommended."
Until I see a dog trainer have an entire pack of formerly red zone agressive pit bulls all living together 24/7 in one pack, I'm sticking with Cesar.

[applesmom]

Cesar's beliefs on control may apply in a pack setting, but they seldom apply in normal everday life or in many working conditions.

The little tiny dog that runs behind the owner clawing at their legs to be picked up and the dog whose head is continuously being forcefully held up by a choke chain just so it can go for a walk are still just as much in control as the dog that's dragging it's owner down the street.

The choke chain (I hate that name) is only effective if used properly as a training tool simply to let the dog know what is expected; and not as a method of control .

Just to name a few; the sheep dogs, pointing breeds, search and rescue dogs etc. must work in front of their handlers or they would be useless at their jobs. Yet these dogs are not the ones in control. Instead they are under complete control of their handlers at all times.

Every dog trainer or behaviorist has some valuable knowledge to share. Since no two dogs are exactly alike, the danger comes when we as pet owners lock ourselves into one method only and refuse to consider reasonable alternatives.

9 times out of 10, lack of consistency in any type of training from housebreaking to going for a simple walk is usually the real cause of behavior problems!

[lizbud]

I guess you could technically still think you're in control, but in a dog's mind, if it's the one in front, they think that they're leading, cause they are.


That pretty much says it all in dog walking techniques. I also think
what Cesar says & does make perfect sense to me. His shows reflect
the effectiveness of Cesar's way. :) You are able to see transformations
in dog behaviours and the methods he uses to do it.


p.s. This subject can probably debated ad nauseum. Different people can have different methods and they can both be right for THEIR dogs. :)

[agilityk9trainer]

I guess you could technically still think you're in control, but in a dog's mind, if it's the one in front, they think that they're leading, cause they are. Even if you pull to go somewhere else, if it turns and goes in front of you again, same problem.

The methods you use seem to be dog training. Cesar's methods are dog psychology. Dog training is essentially applying human psychology on a dog (positive reinforcement) in order to get it to do what you want (tricks). Dog psychology is just that. His methods aren't outdated, they're just different than dog training, as he ISN'T and never claims to be a dog trainer. If using dog psychology on a dog is outdated and using human psychology on a dog is the new "better way to do things", something doesn't seem right with that picture.
Dog training sessions generally are meant to be full of fun and excitement. It's meant to get the dog into a hyper state so that they will be more willing to do what you ask. Lots of people think that their dog is much happier doing this, but lots of times the truth is, he is just excited. And sure, feeding it treats all the time will of course get you a better bond with your dog. You're bribing it.

If I wanted a dog that was an agility champion, of course I would use your training methods. I'm talking about fixing a dog's problems that are psychological.

Yes, I have whistle trained, which is the same as clicker training pretty much. It may work to get dogs to do different behaviors/tricks, but it doesn't work as far as fulfilling a dog's needs go. I have never seen Cesar be overly harsh on a dog. "Physical correction in dog training language can range anywhere between a quick jerk on a training collar to an alpha dog roll.
Beating the sh*t out of a dog is NOT any part of physical correction, nor is it ever recommended."
Until I see a dog trainer have an entire pack of formerly red zone agressive pit bulls all living together 24/7 in one pack, I'm sticking with Cesar.

Wow. I'm sorry you so misunderstand dog training vs. dog psychology. I guess you've bought hook, line and sinker into Cesar's old methods. Trust me, they're old dog TRAINING...not dog psychology. It's what I used 30 years ago. The whole thing about the new training is that it IS based on psychology. Treat training is based on Operant Conditioning....it's based on how the dog's brain works to learn. This is a scientific leraning methods. Everyone who owns a dog should understand the difference between operant conditioning, classical conditioning and soclal learning. it's not based on being so overly controling and using harsh methods to get your dog to work for you out of fear. That's what punishment based methods like Cesar's use. Positve base methods use dog psychology... they use the now well-known understanding of how the dog's brain works.

If ind it interesting that Cesar, who doesn't have a university degree in animal studies, is so highly thought of when the folks who actually have SCIENTIFICALLY studied dogs using known scientific methods (including control groups, etc.) have found that the positive based training works better. That's why animal behaviorist....they're the "trainers" with the Masters degrees....don't like Cesar. It's why Tufts, one of the top vet universities in the nation, said Cesar has put dog training back 20 years. The reason is he's using 20 year old material and rehyping it. And, you've bought it. You believe it to be psychology. Unfortunately, it isn't. It's old fashioned dog TRAINING packaged to sell to those without complete understanding of the canine.

Dogs who are in front of someone when walking aren't in control. If they were, then why when I make the slightest movement in a different direction do my dogs move? Why do I hold my leash by my pinkie when walking? If my dog was in control, why does it obey my every command. Remember. I've got a highly trained agility dog. This isn't just some house dog. This dog has to obey even the slightest movement from me at a split second notice to get around an agility field. And, BTW, my dog is very fast and ALWAYS in front of me in agility. Yet, somehow, inspite of not being "in control" as you put it, we've managed to get a Championship. And, my students are the same. Amazingly enough, even though their dogs walk in front of them, they manage to have well-behaved dogs in the house and in the ring.

I think you need to spend some time at an agility trial. We don't WANT our dogs at our side. You won't see ANY dogs walking in heel position. Yet, you also won't see any dogs who are in control. What you will see are owners who have total and complete control at all times over dogs who are excited and happy.

I'm afraid you have limited experience here. It's sad what Cesar is doing to the dog-loving public. He really is putting dog training back 20 years. Pleease go find an agility trial near you and watch the dogs work. They are out front, but believe me, they are NOT in control. In fact, I find it rather offensive that you would indicate such based on no scientific research at all.

[Suki Wingy]

I have little time on the computer so I scanned through this and I'm printing it to read the rest. My dog WILL NOT heal. Tried just about everything, with ample time in between so he doesn't get confused. I can't get him to heal without being super submissive, and I don't want that. I feel so disconnected with him on the leash, I can't see his face or body language, really. I bought a halti and went through the conditioning to slowly get him used to it and he still would stop at every street corner and try to pull it off.

[Jakesmom]

My Sophie (english cocker) is a terror on the leash, especially if we are in a new or exciting place (hike, beach, etc)--terrible puller. She's only 28 pounds, but when she gets going she can be a real struggle to deal with. I have tried the "don't move forward if pulling" routine with minimal success and alot of effort. I just got a gentle leader head collar, and I have to say, I think its a miracle. She doesn't really like it on her just yet, and we've only taken a couple short walks, but the increase in control is truly amazing.

Jakes mom