why does she fight?

[woomera]

Hi new here. My four year old-she is a terrier/whippet mix gets into fights over her ball. She has been in four fights in the past three years. They never result in biting on her part and it is more that she holds the other dog down and screams and snarls a lot. She is tall and wirey. She only weighs 35 pounds and has a whippet sized mouth so she is not that strong.

Two fights have occurred at our home with visiting male dogs who are small and dominant over the ball and one fight happened over the ball at the park with a female that is known to not exhibit good behavior. The last fight happened at our office. We sometimes take her work. A friend walked into the office with her dog and my dog went after the new dog as soon as they walked in the door. The friend did not tell me she was bringing her dog in. The ball was not there.

She usually really good when she meets others dogs on leash as long as she is not holding her ball in her mouth. Not sure what is going on here.

I think it might be a territory thing. When we walk she pees a lot. I try to stop her from marking. Sometime we can't make it one block without her trying to pee at least three times. Our walk is about 45 minutes long so I know she is just marking and not having to relieve herself.

[Pawsitive Thinking]

Hi new here. My four year old-she is a terrier/whippet mix gets into fights over her ball.

Welcome to PT.

I think you have answered your own question really. Take the ball away from her and start some serious training - you will get some great advice from people here.

[Canis-Lupess]

I think it is just down to defending something she sees as hers and doesn't want other dogs to help themselves to. My border collie bitch would be the same with any ball, not just hers, lol. She claims them as her own and god help any dogs that tries to take it.

I agree about maybe taking the ball away or making sure it isn't around when other dogs are.

Is she neutered? Maybe if she's done, it will help with the marking issue and the dominance with other dogs issue.
My BC bitch has always been a bit of a marker too but being as she is now 13, I don't think it is worth messing with now.

[woomera]

Yes, I told my husband no more toys with visiting dogs. I stopped taking the ball to the park with her months ago.

But after I thought about it, if she wanted to hurt the dog she fought with, she would have. The other dog was a yorkshire terrier who weighs about 5 pounds. So I guess it was a loud and scary warning.

She was spayed at 3 months of age. So still not sure why she marks. I just think she is territorial, which really is not out of the norm for most dogs anyway is it?

And people think that Greyhound and Whippets are really laid back, which they are, but they do not like most other dogs. They are a little funny about how other dogs behave. For example she would never buddy up with a golden or lab but loves pit bulls. She likes dogs that are stoic, but if they are jumpy, angry or snarling she eventually does not like them. Also the dog park and dog beach is terrifying. She refuses to play and hides behind my legs. I have seen whippets do this at dog shows as wellp-Hiding behind their handlers.

[MyPetTherapyDogs]

Hello:
Your dog has Canine Possession Aggression. Better known as object guarding. This is VERY COMMON!!!
Begin by taking away the trigger points. In your case, when people come over, ball gets put away and doesn't come out till they leave.
You would do much better introducing other dogs outdoors on "Neutral grounds" as well. Then when they get acclimated, the other dog can be allowed to come into your office. Supervise the dogs and watch their body language. Allow them to be together for very short sessions and end the sessions on a positive note for both dogs.
Next, you need to begin to practice NOTHING IN LIFE IS FREE! Your dog is running the show.
Here are some exercises that will help with canine posession aggression. My own dog has it and I have done this with her. It worked great. The dog needs to learn to listen to your commands. You taking charge and working with your dog as well as doing basic obedience will help you and your dog establish a stronger relationship with you being in the drivers seat!!!

Some dogs learn to protect certain objects usually as a reaction from their siblings taking and tugging objects away at an early age, or we teach them this behavior by our own actions and reactions.

How do we work with this?

It is important for your dog to view you as the provider of all good things. Begin to practice Nothing in life is Free. (you can google search this) You need to take charge and ALWAYS control the dog's environment. You run the show, not the dog! Keep all but one or two toys up off the floor and take the others down only when you want to play. Make sure you offer an item with a command like "Take it." When you are tired of the game (you that is, not the dog), tell the dog to "Drop it” Give him another item or treat in exchange, and then pick up the first object, putting it away.

Make a list of all the things your dog really enjoys including food, toys, treats and activities, rank them in a hierarchical order, In exchange for dropping the first item give your dog a second, "better" item. For instance, if tennis ball retrieving is third on your dog's list, reward him with cheese, cut up hot dog or piece of chicken for dropping the ball.

Teach a Cue Word

Teach the words “drop it” do it in a fun way with a happy high pitched voice. Start by allowing him to have something that is not so valuable then trade with him for his best treat.

Take away all objects the dog is guarding, that could be toys, socks chews, bones, pigs ears or sleeping places - . Do not allow access to these precious resources a number of days.


Set scheduled times to repeat the "Drop it" exercise at least four times a day but also just do it in opportune moments. Gradually up the anti of treasured goods. Over a period of time the dog will start to look forward to your approach and game. It is at this time that you give your dog the object and walk away, at first come back immediately and trade gradually making the time and distance you walk away longer, until you clearly see the dog is having no problems with your approach at all. . Then only give a treat every third time, then every tenth etc… , , take the object away and immediately give it back extending the period on this until the guarding behavior is diminished.

Hope this info helps.

Susan